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Papoose

Access: 2021 Sept 20, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

As of September 20th 2021, the following areas are closed due to recent rockfalls on The Chief:

North Walls:

  • Lower Zodiac Wall (between Parallel Universe and Angel's Crest, inclusively)

  • Upper Zodiac Wall (Between Lunar Tides and Polaris, inclusively)

  • Bouldering areas: Dark side

Most (but not all) of THE GRAND WALL area is closed.

Please see Squamish Access Society (@squamishaccesssociety IG) for more details and for updates

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 months ago

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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the first obvious route at the papoose.

P1 - 5.10b, 30m. Follow the left leaning crack and then go up under the bolt to a belay

P2 - 5.10c, 28m. Follow the hand crack up to the overlap, make a slabby face traverse (crux, 1 bolt) to the crack on the left. Climb up the crack to the belay.

P3 - 5.10b, 30m. Awkward flaring crack with bad fingerlocks (bolted) up to an awesome belay ledge with a tree (a few bolts, or climb the offwidth straight up). Don't stop here - go back left and up an easy 5m to a bolted belay.

Walk off climbers left or rappel off.

an alternative to the 5.6 runout traverse on Hairpin.

From the anchors before the traverse follow the bolt line straight up the slab and short headwall in front of you.

From p2 belay of Hairpin, traverse right along easy crack and over lip to an anchor (10m). Either belay here or continue straight up, crossing a crack and up the bolted slab. Continue up the easier runout ramp to the right at the top, or move left to an anchor and belay. If moving left, there is one more pitch of bolted 10a slab to the top.

1 5.8 35m
2 5.10b 25m
3 5.7 20m
4 5.10b 35m

P1 Start up Centerfold but break left on a foot traverse just before the first bolt. continue on this rail until you pass a bolted rap station (Optional belay) shortly after you will hit a vertical 1" crack leading up to a ledge with a belay station on the left.

P2 Step left from the anchors along a foot rail passing one bolt, at the second bolt head vertically up the wall to the roof. clip the bolts at the lip of the roof and traverse left on polished feet to the anchors for Hairpin.

P3 Traverse a rail to the right of the hairpin anchors to an airy belay on a small ledge.

P4 Follow the bolt line above the anchors to the slightly runout finish of Centrefold.

FA: John Howe, Robin Barley & Glenn Woloski, 2013

Climbs Mercury Vapour for p1, then a long bolted traverse to the L past two belay stations to the base of the corner for p2. p3 up the corner to chains. p4 up the short crack, clip two bolts and traverse 5m further L to easier ground before heading up R to the final anchors. Can be rapped with a single 60.

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