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Description

This 30m tall cliff is an extension of the routes established here in 2019. Including the popular 2 pitch outing Condo Crack. Sporting 15 routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10 and a pleasant base area. Lots of morning sun, afternoon shade, and a quick 5-minute approach.

Standard Squamish Rack to 3"

All routes, excluding Condo Crack can be climbed with a 60m rope.

Condo Crack requires a walk off, or 70m rope

The first few routes on the right side are a full 30m long, so tie a knot in the end of your rope!

A big thank you to all of those that have donated and continue to support the Sea to Sky bolt fund. This crag along with many others have been done with your donations.

https://gofund.me/56dae663

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Approach

The approach is via the Papoose descent trail.

A good trail leads up to an immediate fork from the main Shannon Falls/ highway 99 intersection. Stay left and follow this trail for 5 minutes, You will come to another obvious fork, take the left one again and you should reach the cliff within a minute or so.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The first climb you see as you approach the Papoose backside.

An aesthetic arete featuring nice pockets, dyke holds, and a great position.

FA: Nick Mcnutt, 2019

Sustained, interesting face climbing past bolts leads to a layback crack up high.

FA: Nick McNutt, 2019

Climb past bolts to reach a short finger crack. fun climbing through a pocketed face above leads to a shared anchor with Income Suite. a small 1/2" cam protects the first moves after the bolt.

FA: Nick McNutt, 2019

1 5.6
2 5.6

An excellent 2 pitch 5.6 crack climb. Great first trad lead/multipitch. Bolted anchors. two 35m pitches.

Start up the obvious hand crack to a big ledge and a bolted anchor.

Second pitch is 10m to the left at another anchor. Climb nice cracks past a few horizontal breaks to the top of the wall. walk off along the ridge to gain the main descent trail.

FA: Nick Mcnutt, 2019

Another Good easy crack that can be linked into Condo Crack.

FA: Nick McNutt, 2021

Climb up past a bolt to reach a short hand crack, Bolts and gear lead to the nice face above.

FA: Chris Small, 2021

Easy climbing leads to a closely bolted technical slab. Easier climbing above past some horizontal cracks, and a step left, ends you at shared anchors with Priced Out

FA: Nick McNutt, 2021

head up the lightning bolt-shaped crack to the top where an exciting face move leads to a couple of horizontal breaks. 2 bolts above leads through some nice pocketed face climbing.

FA: Nick Mcnutt, 2021

The Obvious deep crack marks the start of this route. head straight up past a couple of horizontal cracks, and a steeper section of the wall.

Bolts protect a couple of thin moves headed left, going to high will make it feel hard for the grade.

shared anchor with Bidding War

FA: Chris Small, 2021

Take the fully bolted line left of the deep crack to the top.

FA: Nick Mcnutt, 2021

Head up past 2 bolts to a thin move gaining some easier broken cracks.

FA: Nick Mcnutt, 2021

Take the line of black bolts, faith in your footwork will keep the stress to a minimum.

FA: Jeff Thompson, 2021

Head up to a thought-provoking sequence at the 3'd bolt. easier gear climbing above leads to the anchor.

FA: Nick Mcnutt, 2021

Face climb past some short cracks and face features to a ledge. Some easier climbing above reaches a shared anchor with Blown Budget.

FA: Nick Mcnutt, 2021

The left-most route is a good test of your faith in friction. climbing to far to the right will feel harder than the given grade.

FA: Nick Mcnutt, 2021

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