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Highlander

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 48
  • Aka: Highlander Crag

Access: June 2022 Update, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

"We want to give the climbing community an update on the current closures. At this time there is no change to the restrictions that were put in place after the Grand Wall, Black Dyke, North Walls, and Slhanay rock falls. The current restrictions can be seen on the Stawamus Chief page of the BC Parks website.

https://bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/

BC Parks have informed us that they are still working on danger trees and arranging rock scaling in affected areas. They have also indicated that rangers will be enforcing the closures and issuing fines.

SAS is advocating on behalf of the climbing community for the safe reopening of areas. Given the current situation, our priority is the reduction of closures within the Grand Wall boulders. Some of the current bouldering closures extend well beyond the debris field and damaged trees.

Part of the reopening process is going to involve making sure local and visiting climbers are aware of the risks of rockfall. Closures are less necessary when climbers are making an informed decision about rockfall. As we saw last year, extreme weather events appeared to be triggers, and consideration ought to be given to these factors when we expose ourselves to overhead hazard. We were happy to see a page dedicated to this issue in Marc Bourdon’s new Squamish Bouldering guide."

https://squamishaccess.ca/news/2022625rockfall-closures-june-2022

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Created 8 months ago - Edited 2 days ago

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Description

One of the best new roadside additions to Squamish in recent years. Disgustingly short approach with rock which climbs like a mini Top Shelf. Split-tuh.

Slightly overhanging (and often burly) cracks tucked away in a shadeful forest in the Garibaldi Highlands. Drive to the end of Perth Drive and then walk 50m down the trail into the forest.

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

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Grade Route

Left facing corner to a roof, move left into alcove, then back right to finish up finger and hand crack.

Up the left-facing corner to a roof, past alcove then either finish up the thin corner above or the finger and hand crack out right.

FA: N Elson, K Benevides & J McConnell

The area's money splitter.

Burly fingers to ringlocks through a bulge. Some say .11d

Steep hand and finger crack just left of Crossroads.

Burly.

FA: J McConnell

Up corner then step R through overlaps.

Left-arching crack. Tape on start.

Up arete on block to reach steep hand and finger crack.

Jagged rock to hand crack

Starts up Mouth of Madness, moving right on seams to join 3 Amigos

Start as for Mouth of Madness then step R through linking seams.

FA: T Emmett

Start up right-facing corner on far right of crag, stepping left onto the arete and thin finger crack. Harder than it looks.

Up R-facing corner, step left onto arete.

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