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Description

Predominantly trad area housing a few gems. There are two top one hundred climbs here.

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Approach

The crag is located by walking up the midde trail from the carpark, passing Genesis Wall and continuing left from this wall until you get to the 2nd tier. Betazoid is on the left wall and Milkman Wall is on the right.

Descent notes

Bolt anchors for rappels and/or lower offs

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the super-fun, juggy face on the far left-hand end of the Betazoid Wall. There's nothing else like it in Squamish.

FA: Colin Moorhead & Calvin Adams, 2011

FA: Calvin Adams & Colin Moorhead, 2011

FA: Gary Korba & Luc Mailloux, 1994

FA: Gord Konkin & Che Edwards, 2007

This short, steep route shares the same start as Beat The Clock. It's powerful and features a tough clip. Be quick!

Set: Dan Jackson, 1990

Traverse right along a sharp flake. The crux comes as you pull the lip. A small TCU at the top might be helpful.

Set: Larry Ostrander & Dave Dancer, 1988

FA: john howe & Blake Robinson

FA: John Howe & Blake Robinson, 1985

FA: Colin Moorhead & Emilisia Frirdich

Climb past a fixed pin in a shallow corner right of Jesus Eyes. Continue up to a leftward traverse into a crack, pull onto the Wakey Wakey slab and climb to a high anchor. The name Bellevue was given to a 1962 climb graded 5.6 that seems to match the modern line of Fallout. The disparity in grades has created much confusion.

FA: (Bellevue) Hamish Mutch & Ian Kennedy, 1962

FFA: (Fallout) John Howe & Jim Campbell, 1982

FA: Colin Moorhead & Calvin Adams, 2011

FA: Jim Baldwin & Jim Sinclair, 1961

FFA: Eric Weinstein & Gordie Smaill, 1976

FA: Jim Baldwin & Ken Baker, 1961

FFA: Andreas Maurer & Kevin Mclane, 1975

Start as for Xodus, but follow the diagonal fault from left to right across the wall to finish on Horrors Of Ivan.

FFA: Peter Croft & Mike Beaubien, 1982

FA: Royal Robbins, 1982

FA: Peter Croft & Hamish Fraser, 1982

Climb right of Mr. O'clock past a bolt. Move into the Horros of Ivan cave; finish above on good but spaced pro.

FA: Kevin McLane, 1985

FA: Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser & Tami Knight, 1982

5.13b. Moderate climbing to a brutal boulder move at the top.

FA: Jim Sandford, 1993

Start this excellent link-up by climbing to the first bolt of The Pass. Head left and up to the Horrors Of Ivan cave, then traverse leftward to finish at the top of Mr. O'clock.

FA: Colin Moorhead & Kai Hirvonen, 2000

FA: Peder Ourum & Clive Thompson, 1981

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Activity

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