Routes in Squamish for selected grade

Follow the bolt-line left of Cain and Able. Climb through the top of Original Thin to anchors directly above.

Start up Staples of the Gluten Intolerant, then midway follow the line of bolts diagonally up to the right to the anchors of In the Firing Line. Glue-ins have been replaced with expansion bolts.

This route is characterised by a leftward traverse under a rounded breast-like bulge that leads to a burly finish. Named for the thin crack at the base of the bulge.

Soft but it's also easier if you're tall. Weird gear

The default warm-up is an excellent route in its own right, this is also the start of 3 of the best routes on the cliff so be prepared to share.

Mixed bolts and gear, furthest left route and climbs up a right facing corner past some old bolts

Mixed bolts and gear

Start on features to the right of the leftmost crack with the tree in it. Traverse right along the polished horizontal crack until you reach the next vertical crack.

Starts on jugs on arete, moving up and left and finishing up the easier dyke. Stay on left side of bolts.

Start up the crack 2m left of Keep the Faith, following the crack until stepping left to the bolt and arete just before the top.

SR from #0 Met to #2 BD

A difficult move past a bolt gains fun climbing up the shallow corner to a ledge. Climb a layback crack and the face above past bolts. Use the stump out right to mantel onto the sloping ledge to the anchor on the face.

SR to #2 BD

The original route here. Snakes and Ladders was named for the weaving path the line takes up the wall, where if you step on a snake on pitch 3 you’ll end up right back on pitch 2. Carl led this ground up, onsight, while scrubbing with a brush and drilling on lead! Recleaned (by mere mortals) in 2018. Start below the obvious right facing corner near the end of the big log against the right side of the cliff.

• P1: Gain the corner from the right and exit left when possible. Gear belay near a stump up higher. The original start comes in on ledges from ~10m up the gully on the right.
• P2: Climb the fun curving corner above, then traverse a thin slabby ramp left to a bolted belay (2 bolts).
• P3: Excellent climbing on dyke features right then up to a bolted belay on a ledge. Committing moves to get to the first bolt (6 bolts).
• P4: Up dyke features on the right to gain easier ground and a ramp to the top (1 bolt).

an alternative to the 5.6 runout traverse on Hairpin.

From the anchors before the traverse follow the bolt line straight up the slab and short headwall in front of you.

The steep muscular crack line in the center of the cliff face.

a fun right sweeping corner leads to a few hard, but well-protectred slab moves at the top.

The grove just left of the Arete. 2 bolts protect a stiff boulder problem to get into the crack. These moves can be aided to make the route go at 5.8

Start crouched with a left hand horizontal edge and right hand on the arete. Move up and traverse the ridge!

Pitch 1 is Cardhu Crack.

Named for Jean-Marc Savoie's newborn daughter Charlotte.

5.8, 5.6, 5.10b, crux pitch (supposedly 5.11a more like 5.10c/d), 5.8, 5.8

The obvious splitter ring lock crack. Bring an extra .75 or .5 for the bottom. The best route at the crag for its grade!

The leftmost line above Zen Garden, a short finger crack leads to technical face climbing.

Climb Tricycle Dumptruck up to the deep bay. Head right into an exposed position along a traversing crack, then a great rest. Climb the steep handcrack above to the crux moves past a bolt. Cracks will continue up to the top of the wall and enjoy the view! It's easier to bring your second up after you than it is to clean the pitch. Rap twice to descend

A 160m multi-pitch.

1. Pitch 1: 5.10d: This pitch is a thinker. Several different ways of doing it are possible. Follow the left facing crack to a tricky layback move. From here you could probably go left, but I found that right, up, and then left worked for me. Once on the left-trending overlaps you can choose to stay on one or move up and and down between them as you work your way to the ramp left of the first bolt. Clipping the first bolt requires committing to tough slab feet (maybe not if you're 6'6"). From there keep going past the second bolt after which the grade eases to 5.9 and runs out a good 20 feet to the corner. Build a belay in the corner. Several 5.10+ cruxes. Watch for rope drag. 30m.

2. Pitch 2: 5.11a: Climb awkwardly right off the belay under an overlap to a good stance below a left facing flare. The back of the flare takes ok gear and good fist/hand jams, but is deep enough that it's very difficult to move off the jams. The left wall was wet so we pulled on the gear. Dry it's probably thuggish 10. A wide left facing crack leads up and turns into an undercling to an obvious belay alcove. 5.10, 20m.

3. Pitch 3: 5.10c: Step around the little roof above the belay alcove and head up into the chimney. Place gear as high as possible in the chimney (#3 Camalot), and then downclimb until you can get outside the chimney and make offwidth moves to get above the chimney. It helps to arrange your gear so it's not in the way. The rest of the pitch is probably 5.8 or 5.9, but quite long and finishes with a very pretty finger crack to a treed ledge. It might be possible to take the corner right of the finger crack, but it didn't look well traveled or anywhere near as nice. 5.10, 30m.

4. Pitch 4: 5.11a: This pitch is obvious from the belay ledge. It goes straight up the amazing face and finishes left of the obvious headwall. It is a FULL 70m and has no fixed gear. It will take tons of gear -- the key is not running out. Use nuts to preserve cams. The line is quite straight but it's so long you want to use runners to keep drag at an absolute minimum. Just when you think you have it made, there's one hard move to get established in the final corner, but it quickly eases off after that. Keep going right to the forest. There are several distinct cruxes and lots of continuous jamming between them. It would be possible to stop at less than 60m, just below the headwall if using a 60m rope or out of gear (but you would need some for the belay). 5.10+, 70m!

5. Pitch 5: 5.10b continue up the obvious line (best linked with P4 but can be done separately.

Alternative start to Liquid Gold trends left up the ramp instead of clipping the bolt then left and up to the finger crack (2 bolts) splitting the face. Finish as for LG.

SR to BD#3, 2xBD#2

SR to BD#4, 2xBD#0.4-BD#3

1. P1. 5.11a Start as for P8 of Freeway, step down to L-facing corner then up and left to belay on arete.

2. P2. 5.10c Follow arete up past a couple of bolts and some trad, to belay as for P10 of Freeway, can be linked with P11 of Freeway.

Great sustained climbing all the way. Bolted anchors.

You can either climb the two pitches (5.10b, 5.10a) of "Apron Strings" or approach via the exposed "Flake Escape Ledge".

P1: (5.8) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout P2: (5.9) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout. Traverse right to the base of a roof. This move is often wet. P3: (5.10b) Traverse under the roof to a bolt ladder. P4: (5.10b) "Split Pillar" Beautiful crack. Finishes as a squeeze chimney. Bring 2x #3 1x #4 P5: (5.11a) "The Sword" Layback crack to a crux and more layback. Grab the rope of glory and aid to the anchor. P6: (5.11a) "Perry's Lieback" Traversing layback to a great chimney-like rest, then jugs to the anchors. P7: (5.10a) Traverse along a flat ledge to some 5.9 slab moves and finish with a 5.10a reach move. (Some may need to aid). Belay below a flake. P8: (5.10c) Climb up the tree then traverse layback around the flake and walk up to a ledge Protect the second. To escape via "Bellygood Ledge", climb right to an anchor. To head to the 'Roman Chimneys', head left. P9: (5.6) Traverse across the Bellygood ledge. Exposed.

Descent: Head down climber's right to some slabs and fixed ropes and eventually regain the Chief's hike.