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Penny Lane

Access: June 2022 Update, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

Latest Closure Update:

Grand Wall closure area reduced, Grand Wall (5.11a A0) and Exasperator (5.10c) are now open.

Grand Wall boulder closure reduced to cover just the debris field

North Walls

Darkside Boulders and Angel’s Crest reopened, Debris field and all routes between Alaska Highway and Parallel Universe closed.

After rock scaling and dealing with danger trees we are happy to say that BC Parks have reduced and removed some of the closures.

Our understanding is that before reopening any of the remaining closures BC Parks is working on signage and assessing liability. Neither the North Walls or Dihedrals rockfalls would be easy to address through scaling. Squamish Access Society is advocating that the areas are reopened with climbers taking responsibility for their decision to enter them.

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Created about a year ago - Edited 6 months ago

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Access issues inherited from Smoke Bluffs

Some cliffs are on private land, and closed. Others are close to private homes -- please keep the noise level down near homes, and do not anchor off fences, hydro towers, or anything else that is similar.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Bryan Beard & Ray Parker

FA: Jeff Thompson

Direct start, steep then balancy.

Protecting the boulder at the bottom is a good idea. Nice mellow climbing to a vertical section heading left into a great crack to the anchors. Good protection

The Direct finish.

FA: Robin Barley & D. Cody

FA: Kevin McLane, B Protsch & Joe Turley

FA: Scott Flavelle & J. Howe

FA: Peter Croft, D. Fulton & P. Kindree

FA: Jesse Brown & Graeme Taylor

FA: Scott Flavelle

FA: Dale Caldwell

FA: Andrew Boyd

FFA: Ben Harnden, 2019

FA: Jeremy Blumel

FA: K Mortensen & Dale Caldwell

Follow the nice finger crack that widens large hands at the top.

Belay the second from the top.

Either walk down or rappel down "Crime of the Century"

FA: J Brodie & M Campbell

Big Bro?

FA: Anders Ourum & L. Soet

FA: Peter Croft

FA: Sonnie Trotter, 2007

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