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Description

Left of The Zip Sector is a large face sporting multiple ledges and routes from 5.6 to 10d. As of August 10th, 2020, the District of Squamish has purchased the private land. and thanks to the hard labour of many folks, this sector is clean and reopened!

Access issues inherited from Smoke Bluffs

Some cliffs are on private land, and closed. Others are close to private homes -- please keep the noise level down near homes, and do not anchor off fences, hydro towers, or anything else that is similar.

Approach

From the Smoke Bluff parking lot, head up the main path and turn left and enter the forest just before the small bridge. Follow this path until it pops out beside the Mamquam Blind Channel. Turn left and follow the path for about 10 minutes until a small plank bridge appears on the left. Cross the bridge and you will be at the Cliff containing The Zip, Burning Man Corner, and Boys of Porteau.

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Routes

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Grade Route

CLOSED PROJECT: Left most crack with one bolt, currently red-tagged as of may 11 2021

Climb Chicken-Sashimi up to the blocky undercling, then break out right on the slab. Climb past a horizontal crack, then 2 bolts to the finish.

Start on Swampton, then quickly break out left on the tricky hand traverse. Mantle up at the end of the crack and climb the slab past 4 bolts.

Climb the wide crack all the way to the top of the cliff. doubles from 1" to 3"

Climb Swampton up to the first ledge, then step right and head past 2 bolts to the anchors on the large ledge.

Climb the slightly overhanging corner past some awkward jambs to the ledge, cam be linked with the 5.9 crack directly above.

From the large ledge above Swampton, Climb the left-leaning crack. Gear to 2"

From the ledge above Swampton, climb the Left vertical crack.

The striking corner on the upper ledge. Climb through some easy moves to the base of the small overhang, stemming and some laybacking will get you through the crux with ease. A short offwidth will land you below a set of bolts with no rings.

Those bolts are for a toprope setup.

To lower off via a ring anchor, climb up a short finger rack left of the bolts to a chain and ringsetup.

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Activity

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