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Jug Slab

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 78

Access: June 2022 Update, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

Latest Closure Update:

Grand Wall closure area reduced, Grand Wall (5.11a A0) and Exasperator (5.10c) are now open.

Grand Wall boulder closure reduced to cover just the debris field

North Walls

Darkside Boulders and Angel’s Crest reopened, Debris field and all routes between Alaska Highway and Parallel Universe closed.

After rock scaling and dealing with danger trees we are happy to say that BC Parks have reduced and removed some of the closures.

Our understanding is that before reopening any of the remaining closures BC Parks is working on signage and assessing liability. Neither the North Walls or Dihedrals rockfalls would be easy to address through scaling. Squamish Access Society is advocating that the areas are reopened with climbers taking responsibility for their decision to enter them.

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 26 days ago

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Description

Jug Slab is a very clean face directly on the blind channel road, it's marked by a short slab at its lower left side with a few bolts, and a large, deep, gully on its right side.

Access issues inherited from Smoke Bluffs

Some cliffs are on private land, and closed. Others are close to private homes -- please keep the noise level down near homes, and do not anchor off fences, hydro towers, or anything else that is similar.

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Routes

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Grade Route

climb the corner past broken pockets to a short slab with 2 bolts.

The second line from the left, face climb past bolts to the short seam at the top.

FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996

Follow the bolts up the slab.

FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996

a short traverse past one bolt, then follow 4 bolts up a well-featured slab.

pad up the bolted line just right of center.

FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1996

Far-right side before the gully

FA: Jeff Thompson & Glenn Payan, 1997

A short climb on the lower bulge.

FA: Robin Beech

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