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The Grand Wall

Access: June 2022 Update, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

"We want to give the climbing community an update on the current closures. At this time there is no change to the restrictions that were put in place after the Grand Wall, Black Dyke, North Walls, and Slhanay rock falls. The current restrictions can be seen on the Stawamus Chief page of the BC Parks website.

https://bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/stawamus/

BC Parks have informed us that they are still working on danger trees and arranging rock scaling in affected areas. They have also indicated that rangers will be enforcing the closures and issuing fines.

SAS is advocating on behalf of the climbing community for the safe reopening of areas. Given the current situation, our priority is the reduction of closures within the Grand Wall boulders. Some of the current bouldering closures extend well beyond the debris field and damaged trees.

Part of the reopening process is going to involve making sure local and visiting climbers are aware of the risks of rockfall. Closures are less necessary when climbers are making an informed decision about rockfall. As we saw last year, extreme weather events appeared to be triggers, and consideration ought to be given to these factors when we expose ourselves to overhead hazard. We were happy to see a page dedicated to this issue in Marc Bourdon’s new Squamish Bouldering guide."

https://squamishaccess.ca/news/2022625rockfall-closures-june-2022

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 months ago - Edited 6 hours ago

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5.8
2 5.9
3 5.10b
4 5.10b
5 5.11a
6 5.11a
7 5.10a
8 5.10c
9 5.6

Great sustained climbing all the way. Bolted anchors.

You can either climb the two pitches (5.10b, 5.10a) of "Apron Strings" or approach via the exposed "Flake Escape Ledge".

P1: (5.8) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout P2: (5.9) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout. Traverse right to the base of a roof. This move is often wet. P3: (5.10b) Traverse under the roof to a bolt ladder. P4: (5.10b) "Split Pillar" Beautiful crack. Finishes as a squeeze chimney. Bring 2x #3 1x #4 P5: (5.11a) "The Sword" Layback crack to a crux and more layback. Grab the rope of glory and aid to the anchor. P6: (5.11a) "Perry's Lieback" Traversing layback to a great chimney-like rest, then jugs to the anchors. P7: (5.10a) Traverse along a flat ledge to some 5.9 slab moves and finish with a 5.10a reach move. (Some may need to aid). Belay below a flake. P8: (5.10c) Climb up the tree then traverse layback around the flake and walk up to a ledge Protect the second. To escape via "Bellygood Ledge", climb right to an anchor. To head to the 'Roman Chimneys', head left. P9: (5.6) Traverse across the Bellygood ledge. Exposed.

Descent: Head down climber's right to some slabs and fixed ropes and eventually regain the Chief's hike.

FA: Ed Cooper & Jim Baldwin, 1961

FA: Scott Cosgrove & Annie Overlin

1 5.11a
2 5.11a
3 5.11d
4 5.10b

Scramble up ramps left of The Grand Wall topout, reaching the Dance Platform, with the Roman Chimneys on the L end.

  1. Scramble to top of large flake, continuing up broken cracks to a face crux past bolts to belay on L side of huge flake.

  2. The Boot Flake. Move into the wide crack to belay on a large chockstone. Bring larger gear.

  3. Climb chimney. An easier but more bold 10d option moves left into shallow corner up to a horizontal ledge and belly crawl back into the corner.

  4. Continue up corner.

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