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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.8
2 5.9
3 5.10b
4 5.10b
5 5.11a
6 5.11a
7 5.10a
8 5.10c
9 5.6

Great sustained climbing all the way. Bolted anchors.

You can either climb the two pitches (5.10b, 5.10a) of "Apron Strings" or approach via the exposed "Flake Escape Ledge".

P1: (5.8) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout P2: (5.9) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout. Traverse right to the base of a roof. This move is often wet. P3: (5.10b) Traverse under the roof to a bolt ladder. P4: (5.10b) "Split Pillar" Beautiful crack. Finishes as a squeeze chimney. Bring 2x #3 1x #4 P5: (5.11a) "The Sword" Layback crack to a crux and more layback. Grab the rope of glory and aid to the anchor. P6: (5.11a) "Perry's Lieback" Traversing layback to a great chimney-like rest, then jugs to the anchors. P7: (5.10a) Traverse along a flat ledge to some 5.9 slab moves and finish with a 5.10a reach move. (Some may need to aid). Belay below a flake. P8: (5.10c) Climb up the tree then traverse layback around the flake and walk up to a ledge Protect the second. To escape via "Bellygood Ledge", climb right to an anchor. To head to the 'Roman Chimneys', head left. P9: (5.6) Traverse across the Bellygood ledge. Exposed.

Descent: Head down climber's right to some slabs and fixed ropes and eventually regain the Chief's hike.

FA: Ed Cooper & Jim Baldwin, 1961

FA: Scott Cosgrove & Annie Overlin

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