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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.8/9 40m
2 5.10c 35m
3 5.10a/b 40m
4 5.10b 30m

P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay.

P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m

P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux.

P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it.

An awesome finger crack

5.10b to end of wide crack and first anchors, but don't stop there the best is yet to come, up thin crack to upper anchors. Excellent moves on new extension, makes the whole route 5.10d

Follow the chimney up to the tree. It starts a little narrow but ends wide enough for your whole body to be inside. Continue into a chasm. Multiple exits exist but you can climb left from the back corner up into the cave. Squeeze through and Exit left onto a traverse around to rap anchors.

Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches but the rope drag is horrible if doing as a single.

1 star climbing, 3 star adventure.

FA: Kyle + co., May 2016

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