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Squamish Buttress

Access: 2021 Sept 20, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

As of September 20th 2021, the following areas are closed due to recent rockfalls on The Chief:

North Walls:

  • Lower Zodiac Wall (between Parallel Universe and Angel's Crest, inclusively)

  • Upper Zodiac Wall (Between Lunar Tides and Polaris, inclusively)

  • Bouldering areas: Dark side

Most (but not all) of THE GRAND WALL area is closed.

Please see Squamish Access Society (@squamishaccesssociety IG) for more details and for updates

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 months ago

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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.10c
7 5.6

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \

P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead.

FFA: Peter Charak & Joe Turley

FA: Fred Becky, Henryk Mather & Don Claunch, 1959

Direct start to the squamish buttress. Starts off of the trail, just before the original start. Bolted climbing leads to a gear protected flake. Can easily link into the second pitch of the buttress in one long pitch.

1 5.10a 45m
2 5.7 40m
3 5.9 35m
4 5.7 40m
5 5.8 20m
6 5.9 45m
7 5.7 45m
8 5.9 25m
9 5.6 40m
10 5.10b 40m

FA: Kris Wild, Bruce Stover & Megan Humpbrey, 2001

Weaves a line mostly parallel to Ultimate Everything at a slightly harder grade. Pitches can be woven between Ultimate Everything and Upper Echelon.

FA: Ryan Kurytnik & Dave Brayden, 2007

Climb the first seven pitches of Ultimate Everything. Then walk 40m along a tree ledge to finish on the last two pitches of Upper Echelon.

1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.8
7 5.7

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

FA: Sonnie Trotter, Lydia Zamorano & Ben Moon, 2010

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