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Squamish Buttress

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 155
  • Aka: Kashmir Wall

Access: June 2022 Update, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

Latest Closure Update:

Grand Wall closure area reduced, Grand Wall (5.11a A0) and Exasperator (5.10c) are now open.

Grand Wall boulder closure reduced to cover just the debris field

North Walls

Darkside Boulders and Angel’s Crest reopened, Debris field and all routes between Alaska Highway and Parallel Universe closed.

After rock scaling and dealing with danger trees we are happy to say that BC Parks have reduced and removed some of the closures.

Our understanding is that before reopening any of the remaining closures BC Parks is working on signage and assessing liability. Neither the North Walls or Dihedrals rockfalls would be easy to address through scaling. Squamish Access Society is advocating that the areas are reopened with climbers taking responsibility for their decision to enter them.

See warning details and discuss

Created about two years ago - Edited 8 months ago

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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Approach

Located left of the start of The Squamish Buttress (after the Apron).

Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.10c
7 5.6

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \

P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead.

FFA: Peter Charak & Joe Turley

FA: Fred Becky, Henryk Mather & Don Claunch, 1959

1 5.10a 27m
2 5.10c 34m

This route has it all, from hand jams to fist cams, slot climbing, and delicate slab. you can use this route to link into P3 of the Squamish Buttress/ Butt Light

P1: climb a hand crack through a small roof to a slot chimney past a large block.

P2: smear up a thin right-leaning seam (small gear and nuts) to the base of a large block. traverse rightwards around the block to a steep burly finish.

FA: Evan Beatty, 2023

Direct start to the squamish buttress. Starts off of the trail, just before the original start. Bolted climbing leads to a gear protected flake. Can easily link into the second pitch of the buttress in one long pitch.

1 5.8
2 5.5
3 5.7
4 5.7
5 5.9
6 5.8
7 5.7

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

FA: Sonnie Trotter, Lydia Zamorano & Ben Moon, 2010

FA: Pat Delaney & John Furneaux, 2000

FFA: Ben Harnden, Oct 2022

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Kevin McLane & Andrew Boyd

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780986519147

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing found at Squamish, near Vancouver, covering both single pitch routes, and the huge multi-pitch routes up the face of the infamous Chief face.

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

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