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Access: June 2022 Update, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

Latest Closure Update:

Grand Wall closure area reduced, Grand Wall (5.11a A0) and Exasperator (5.10c) are now open.

Grand Wall boulder closure reduced to cover just the debris field

North Walls

Darkside Boulders and Angel’s Crest reopened, Debris field and all routes between Alaska Highway and Parallel Universe closed.

After rock scaling and dealing with danger trees we are happy to say that BC Parks have reduced and removed some of the closures.

Our understanding is that before reopening any of the remaining closures BC Parks is working on signage and assessing liability. Neither the North Walls or Dihedrals rockfalls would be easy to address through scaling. Squamish Access Society is advocating that the areas are reopened with climbers taking responsibility for their decision to enter them.

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago - Edited 26 days ago

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Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5.10c 35m
2 5.11a 20m

Starts about 25m right of Borderline, climbing up a broken face capped by a small roof at 6m.

  1. P1: 10c, 35m

  2. P2: 11a, 20m

Warning Rock: Loose Block on P6

1 5.10b
2 5.10b
3 5.10b
4 5.7
5 5.10a
6 5.5
7 5.10a
8 5.9
9 5.5
10 5.9
11 5.7
12 5.10a
13 5.8

Angel's Crest is a classic 5-star multi-pitch route that is one of the longest and most adventurous 5.10 routes on the Chief. This route ascends the "north arete", the entire ridge to the R of the North Gully.

  1. 5.10b Up a slab past a few bolts and over a bulge (crux). Clip the rap anchor and continue around to another slab with 4 more bolts to base of Angles crack

  2. 5.10a-5.10b Angel Crack. A L leaning fingers to hand layback crack with good rests. Finishing with a short hand traverse L under a block before moving up to the belay ledge.

  3. 5.10b Out L and up face to a groove, then up and R back on to the arête.

  4. 5.7 Easy scrambling up the slabby arête.

  5. 5.10a Steep Face - Up steep face. Move R below a bulge, then up easier through a R corner to a ledge.

  6. 5.7 Easy ground to a small ledge with trees.

  7. 5.10a Up two ramps and R. Finish up a L facing corner to reach the ledge.

  8. 5.9 Up R, and then up through the trees to groove. Follow up R, then up to the ledge with trees. Alternative pitch - An off-width on the L

  9. 5.7 Acrophobes Traverse. Follow trail and scramble L and up to the base of the Lower Tower. Up diagonally, then hand traverse the ridge to the summit of the Lower Tower. Note there are alternative routes here The Acrophobes Towers, A knife edge over which you climb to eventually rappel off the back side.

  10. 5.9 Through the notch, climb back to the west, then across and up to a fixed line. Downclimb to a small dirt ledge. Scramble along the ramp into a gully to escape the route.

  11. 5.8-5.10b Up and L through the easy ground until the Whale-Back arête leads up and R to a small stance. At the top of the arete, move R to belay from a piton above the twisted cedar tree. An alternate pitch - The crack on R.

  12. 5.10a Climb the crack system above the gnarled route and over the piton. Sustained climbing takes you to a big ledge and a bolted belay.

  13. 5.8 On the R of the ledge, a crawl space on a sloped ramp leads to a rock mount, from where you can step across to the far face of a deep chimney.

The original final pitch moved up the face directly above and behind the crack of the previous pitch, avoiding the chimney.

Alternate start to get around people:

  1. 5.7 Step up R for a few metres to a small ledge, then up a dirty vegetated corner to a larger ledge.

  2. 5.8 Starting on R. Blocky moves lead up to an obvious crack system finishing at base of angels crack.

FA: Les MacDonald, Hank Mather & Fred Beckey, 1962

FFA: D.Loecks, P. Charak, L. DuBois & P. Charak L. DuBois, 1975

1 5.11a 30m
2 5.11c 25m
3 5.6 15m

best crack in squamish

FFA: Hazel Findlay, Aug 2017

FFA: Jeremy Blumel, Jason Kruk & Evan Stevens

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