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1 5.7 40m
2 5.8 40m
3 5.5 10m
4 5.7 25m
5 5.10b 30m

description

5 pitches, all bolted belay stations. Rappel descent. See quickdraw publications free topos for details.

  1. Starts up a finger crack at the base of the v-groove on the approach to the start of Diedre, Banana Peel, etc.

  2. Head up the crack on the right of the belay, it gets thinner as it goes up and ends with a short slab section protected by a single bolt. Same anchor as pitch 1 of Dirty Little White Boys.

  3. Go up and right through the trees and up the ramp to the bolted belay just above the fir tree.

  4. Enjoy the laybacks right up the dihedral until you reach the bolted belay. (If you plan to skip the final 5.10 pitch head right to the rappel anchor just before the top of the pitch.)

  5. Thin corners with a bolted face climb in the middle and ends with a short downclimb to reach the final anchor. Rap from here using the dedicated rappel route (climbers right of the trees), or quest onto the blank slab above (pitch 5 of Dream On).

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 49.68697, -123.14624

Grade citation

5.7,5.8,5.5,5.7,5.10b Assigned grade
5.8 [5.7 - 5.9] -- grAId

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
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S
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 71 from 7 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 4
Flash 1
Tick 2
Attempt 1

Comment keywords

layback bail interesting crux good nice perfect great amazing awesome fun

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Marc Bourdon

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781777147129

Your trusty guide through more than 3500 boulder problems scattered around Squamish and the surrounding area. Containing an extensive history of Squamish bouldering, info about planning a trip, as well as countless colour photos, maps and infographics, this guide provides the details for navigating one of North America's top bouldering destinations. It includes a comprehensive list of problems for when you're climbing by yourself, a new Top 100 list featuring boulders from V0 through V14, and even the infamous list of the Squamish 7 Terrors.

Author(s): Kevin McLane & Andrew Boyd

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780986519147

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing found at Squamish, near Vancouver, covering both single pitch routes, and the huge multi-pitch routes up the face of the infamous Chief face.

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

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Wed 19 Apr
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