Routes in The Chief for selected grade

Follow the chimney up to the tree. It starts a little narrow but ends wide enough for your whole body to be inside. Continue into a chasm. Multiple exits exist but you can climb left from the back corner up into the cave. Squeeze through and Exit left onto a traverse around to rap anchors.

Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches but the rope drag is horrible if doing as a single.

1 star climbing, 3 star adventure.

Up the thin seam, through the chimney then follow the diagonal crack. Possible to do as one pitch, but the rope drag is real.

P1: Start up a lightly vegetated dirt ramp till a corner breaks off left, follow this thin finger corner up to a set of bolted anchors.

P2 From these anchors follow the obvious left sloping crack up to the start of the quartz dyke. follow the dike with good gear to a small ledge and a second bolted station.

P3 Continue following the dyke for s few meters until it's possible to traverse right onto the slab past a bolt. Continue trending up and right until you can step down off an arete to a nice ledge and crack corner system. Either belay here with a gear anchor or continue up to the small roof above you passing it on the right side to another set of bolted anchors.

2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams

This one may well get the 5.9+. Start up through overhang and up diagonal left flake crack. Burly but not where you might expect it!

A sport climb, but a #2 cam is used to protect the bottom flake.

The traverse to all the routes.

The most expensive climb in squamish. Careful of loose rock

A route on the west face of a giant boulder just to the north of the Titanic boulder. Start seated in front of the tree and climb a couple of ledges for an easy finish. Walk off the large ramp on the south face.

high ball on arete

Highball on back of boulder

Start at the left side of the lower apron.

1. (5.7 30m) Climb up a shallow groove, then past a bolt then up slab to an anchor.

2. (5.7 30m) Foot traverse up and right along the crack, then up a bulge and a few face moves to an anchor.

3. (5.7 20m) Follow the bolts (6?) to the next anchor.

4. (5.8 10m) Follow the bolts up the head wall, then up to the anchor. Rappel; or continue past the anchor to trees if continuing up the Apron.

Can be linked into just two pitches.

Starts to the right of Diedre, from same ledge to Horizontal crag and then follow the three bolts. All anchors are bolted except the third and 6th pitch which end big ledges with plenty of trees to choose from. You might want a couple of middle sized cams but 98% bolted, bolts are close enough to avoid big falls and just before all crux moves. Technically 6 pitches but last one its short and scrambly can be linked with a 60m to the ledge so most parties would do in 5.

P1: start just right of Diedre and pad up the slab past horizontal cracks, then trend right through rolls to belay at a higher seam. P2: Move up and through a mantle, trend leftwards for easier 5.8 then back right to a large tree island. or trend straight up (10b, FA unknown) P3:move the Belay down rightwards down the treed ramp to a large pine, then continue up the crack above to another tree island. P4: From the treed ledge continue up past 2 bolts to a gear + one bolt anchor. P5: Move left crossing Two Scoops to a corner, follow this for 3m then step left past a bolt, and pad up the slab to the base of a long corner system. P6: continue up the corner system to a belay at

220m. A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.

1. (5.4, 20-30m) Climb easy but unprotected slab to a horizontal break, then traverse right until a pair of birch trees.

2. (5.easy, 30m) Continue right along the horizontal break, slightly up then curving back down until a stand of trees.

3. (5.5 R, 15m) Stem up a tree, then step onto a slab. Friction up the unprotected slab to more trees.

4. (5.7, 30m) Climb unprotected slab above the trees towards trending leftwards, then step right to a bolt. Pull a couple 5.7 moves past the bolt, then more unprotected slab left to a corner. Surmount the corner and bulge above, then traverse up and left to trees.

5. (5.4, 15m) Move left to an obvious flake then up into a groove. Make a gear belay.

6. (5.7, 30m) Pull up onto the slab right of the belay and angle up and right on un-protected slab to into a corner, follow this for a bit, then left and up to trees.

7. (5.4 50m) Climb up into a water runnel; follow this and obvious cracks until you find a stance with small gear behind a flake and belay.

8. (5.4 50m) Continue up the flake above past a detached piece of slab, then up the easier slab to the trees.

The first route climbed on the apron. Run out with intriguing rock features known as "The Elephant Steps"

The last two pitches of Long Time no See can be used to climb from the top any North Apron route to above Memorial Ledge. Start at two bolts at the scramble below Memorial, just to the left of Karen's math start.

Direct start for Calculus Crack so you don't have to start in the trees on the first two pitches of St. vitus Dance.

P1: Start up passing a bolt and head toward an obvious left facing crack. Pull into the crack (crux) and continue up insecure moves to you can step right and up a flake. Gear Belay above the flake.

P2: Long pitch starting up multiple flakes and continuing on easy ground to some flaring crack moves near the top. Bolted belay.

This pitch is the easiest way to start any climb on the North Apron. It is mostly steep tree climbing, with a few moves in a crack.

From the top of the pitch, there are now 4 options to get to Baseline ledge, listed from left to right:

1. South Arete p2 (5.8)

2. Ha7lh Skwalwen (10.a)

3. St. Bernard p1 (5.9)

4. St. Vitus Direct (5.10a)

In order to arrive at Baseline ledge (and access St. Vitus, South Arete, etc.), one has to climb two marginal pitches in the trees.

This pitch (the first pitch of St. Bernard), offers a better variation to the second pitch in the trees. It is the obvious hand crack that starts above a stump.

First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;

1. Start as for St Vitus' Dance to tree belay in ledge

2. Keep going up through the trees with a hard move right of the ledge 3)Step left into two bolt anchor so you get belayed with no rope drag, and follow the double crag until gets steep, step left and build gear belay small ledge at the start of finger crack, long pitch 50m

3. Climb the finger crack with solid finger locks and solid gear, a few more meters of easier climbing and build belay at start of next steep ramp

4. Continue up the crag and keep going up until the angle eases into an easy slab and angle right to a two bolt belay 6)Keep going up through easy terrain to the ledge, we did it unroped or possible to combine with previous pitch just continue going up until you reach the trees and memorial ledge

Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.

1. Pull a short crack move to trees and roots pulling until a second, somewhat longer, crack.

2. Climb up a broken crack system to baseline ledge. Consider climbing the obvious hand to off-width crack listed as 'St. Bernard P1' instead.

3. The long obvious hand-crack. Belay just above a bulge. Keep a #3 for the anchor.

4. Step up and right, following discontinued cracks to a chimney-like feature with a crack inside. Belay off of a combination of cams, bush and slung flake.

5. Climb up the shallow cracks to a steep hand crack. Belay off of a tree or (70m) link to the top.

6. Wander up the slab and move left to a low angle crack with a high first step. Belay off of a tree.

Descent:

Recommended

Rappel off of calculus crack's anchor into the gully (4x 30m) ;

Or

Exposed

Scramble up a short right-leaning crack to a ledge below 'Karen's Math' and wander up the gully to the right. Keep going right to broadway ledge and descend along the south trail.

Approach: Climb the standard approach pitch of "St. Vitus' Dance" to lower Baseline Ledge.

1. step off the cut stump and climb the hand crack to its top then transition left to gain Baseline Ledge

2. climb the cracks left "St. Vitus' Dance" to gain a bolted anchor

3. climb up through short cracks and pods to gain a foot ledge, transition right to gain pitch-three of "St. Vitus' Dance"

4. Finish "St. Vitus' Dance".

Gear: Rack to 4 inches. Double hand sizes.

Source Squamish Facebook page

Starts at the Memorial Ledge. climb up the obvious crack. 40m Belay off of hidden bolts on the boulder at the top.

Start as for Boomstick Crack, moving right to the crack via the bolt, then up the crack for two long pitches, passing a second bolt about 1/3 of the way up the second pitch. Tree belay at the top, then rap the route via 4 rap anchors. WARNING: The second rap is about 33m, so stop at the tree just above the chains!

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

Climb the first seven pitches of Ultimate Everything. Then walk 40m along a tree ledge to finish on the last two pitches of Upper Echelon.