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Slhanay

Access: 2021 Sept 20, Rock Closures due to Rock Fall at The Chief

As of September 20th 2021, the following areas are closed due to recent rockfalls on The Chief:

North Walls:

  • Lower Zodiac Wall (between Parallel Universe and Angel's Crest, inclusively)

  • Upper Zodiac Wall (Between Lunar Tides and Polaris, inclusively)

  • Bouldering areas: Dark side

Most (but not all) of THE GRAND WALL area is closed.

Please see Squamish Access Society (@squamishaccesssociety IG) for more details and for updates

See warning details and discuss

Created 7 months ago

Seasonality

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Description

A smaller face north of the Chief.

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

History

History timeline chart

As of June, 2008 this peak was renamed Slhanay (pronounced Slarnay) as "The Squaw" was considered a derogatory racist and sexist term.

Routes

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Grade Route

From the belay at P3 of Birds of Prey. Tips splitters into terrific dihedral climbing. 5 pitches in all. 70m rope to rap off.

5.10a, 5.10d, 5.10a

FA: Joe Turley & Ted Marks, 1985

1 5.7 30m
2 5.10c 60m
3 5.8 25m
4 5.10b 45m
5 5.11a 20m
6 5.11a 35m
7 5.10c 25m

Deep Impact is an extension of 'Halley’s Comet', a classic 60 meter splitter finger crack located on the left side of Dog Wall that was established by Joe Turley and Ted Marks in 1985. Deep Impact links several buttresses providing a well-protected quality crack line in a more quiet area in Squamish. Long splitter cracks, comfortable ledges, and excellent views make for a great day of rock climbing. Source Squamish Climbing Magazine

FA: Kaylan Worsnop, Danny Guestrin, Brent Goodman & Stephen Molgard, 2019

Phenomenal climbing (but may need some cleaning).

1 5.11b
2 5.10c
3 5.11d
4 5.11d
5 5.11a
1 5.8
2 5.8
3 5.10b
4 low 5th
5 5.10b
6 5.8

One of the more travelled routes at Slihany.

P1-2:
follow an older crack climb called Eagels' Domain, with a gear anchor on a small ledge mid-pitch. Alternately you can link the pitches with a 70m rope, or simul-climb the easy start.
P3:
Climb an easy slab up to the striking corner above, some awkward and reachy moves get you established on a small ledge. Then a short layback or technical stemming will allow you to crawl over the lip. A committing step up allows you to traverse the slab left, and around the corner to the anchors.
P4:
climb the low 5th slab left then up towards the tree, and a set of anchors.
P5/6:
Puzzle your way through the corners, and face cracks. don't go into this pitch expecting a burly fight, but a slow methodical puzzle with good rests. Alternately there is a good ledge 1/2 way up you can build a gear anchor on.

Original route follows arete to ledge at .11a.

Heart of Darkness continues to top, after .11a pitch at .12c.

This route continues up the arete after the last pitch of Frayed Ends of Sanity (.11a).

Rap in face/slab climb on the grey face, climbers right of Pipeline. If you've climbed a route on Slhanay and still have some energy and skin left on your finger tips, this is a fun and engaging pitch. Easily top roped from the same bolts you rap in on, or pull the rope and commit to a mildly run-out route that sits somewhere between slab and face climbing.

Set: Josh Mackenzie

FA: Josh Mackenzie & Steph Hart, 24 Aug 2019

The largest corner on the cliff, visible from anywhere in Squamish. Starts up Birds of Prey, stepping right to the base of the corner at 55m. Pitch 3 can be split in two with chains at 25m if needed.

Top 100 in the Squamish select guide book, and well worth that status.

P1; start up wide corner crack, trend left on thin finger locks and crimps before making a difficult move into the vertical crack. (.10d)

P2; follow low angle corner to gear belay at base of obvious layback corner. (.7)

P3; climb prominent corner using laybacks and stems. Crux is protected by a bolt. Either runout to the chains or fiddly, hard to place gear. (.10C)

P4; 2 bolts protect the overhanging boulder problem straight off the belay. Trend up and right to belay and top out. (.10C)

FA: robin barley & bruce macdonald

Starts up corner crack to right of bolted start of Godforsaken Land. Alternate finish goes at 10c by heading up and left across slab on fourth pitch to join The Great Game.

The roof crack 10m to the right of The Great Drain

The roof crack 10m right of The Great Drain

The line of bolts R of XTC, up slab trending right to arete

FA: John Howe

Information needed

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Activity

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