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Marine Slabs

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 5
  • Aka: Marine Lab Slabs

Seasonality

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Summary

A small (for now!) route climbing area near the Ocean Science Centre aka Marine Lab. Currently has a few sport routes and a few Trad/Toprope routes. Short approach, close to town, and well bolted.

Access issues

Park at the 'upper' East Coast Trail gravel parking lot at the Marine Lab.

Approach

The hike begins on the side of the road to the 'right' when facing the road away from the ocean. Walk up a short bit until you see an incut trail towards the face.

History

History timeline chart

Route development in this area began circa 2018.

Routes

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Grade Route

From the FA: We climbed this little face on our first day exploring the area. A fun but deceptive climb. After we cleaned the base, we noticed how a low angle slab led up to the line we were looking at. We put the first bolt at the top of this slab. Don't take it for granted, it is a little trickier than it appears. The second and third bolt are quite close but this is to prevent a ground fall onto the slab below. Once the second clip is secure, a high step to the right gains a couple of knobs to grab for the 3rd bolt. A couple of cool looking features lead up to the 4th bolt and then over the nose to the 5th bolt. The top is easily gained from there. Lots of jugs with thin feet at times.

FA: J. Peterknecht & N. O'Regan, 18 Jul 2018

From the FA: This was the first obvious line we found and it follows the arete on the first prominent face. As we were cleaning the face, we found a few good features very close to the arete which are glued together with thin slab moves. When we were deciding on bolt placement, I had a certain flow of the climb I was trying to capture and good clips from good stances. The first three bolts are on easy terrain and they bring you out to the arete on your left. The 4th bolts send you out towards the arete with classic slab feet, smearing on barely positive features. There is a vertical crack that has been eroded to a flaring feature that allows you to gain a upward facing triangular jug. You clip the 5th bolt off this position. Traverse to the right where a 1 inch wide ledge waits. The 6th bolt is clipped standing on this ledge. This bolt is a bit run out. Follow the small crimps up to the top anchors. There is an easy finish by going back to the right. This climb has features that we have noticed in the area, thin slabs and big features. It is a good representation of what to expect out of this area.

FA: J. Peterknecht & N. O'Regan, 18 Jul 2018

From the FA: Starts on ledge above the start of Marine Slab (can use same start if you want). The first bolt is quite low. The climb starts with a pair of vertical 'cracks' that lead out to the left. If someone falls unprotected at this point, it could be a 15-20 foot fall. This is the reason for the first low bolt! At this point you are below a scar on the face. There was some pretty rotten flakes here that we had to chip off. Find the finger pockets on the horizontal ledge and work to the right to the next vertical 'crack'. Gain a nice foot ledge and then an easy scramble to the top.

FA: J. Peterknecht & N. O'Regan, 9 Sep 2018

Starts just to the left of a large stump in the base of a crack. Work you way up the blank face til you gain a right hand in the 'crack'. There are three equally spaced foot ledges that allow for good clipping stances. The crux is the top and one crimp helps unlock it.

FA: . Peterknecht & N. O'Regan, 9 Sep 2018

To the right of "Stumped"; the current rightmost established sport line there is a set of top anchors. This route appears to either be a Trad line, or under development.

Another set of top access bolts. Might not be a route in and of itself but the rappel bolts set to access future development. The line beneath it looks cleaned and interesting.

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Activity

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