★★★ Fun With a Gun 5.13b R

The route was pioneered by Bob Cartwright in the early 90s. At the time he made the first ascent at A3, he claimed the route could go free. "Fun with a Gun" had a few contenders over the years, but it took almost 30 years before someone redpoint it.

Start right of the anchor and climb a short left facing corner (0.1/0.2 BD X4) to a tricky mantle onto a good foot hold to reach the main seam. Place some gear and mantle to a shallow ledge underneath a blank section capped with a few overlaps. Place a bomber finger size cam plus a critical sideway nut a foot above it (#4 BD Stopper) and get ready for the first crux. This next section is a little scary and involves very technical climbing on unusual features. So, battle up this section to a very good hold and place a tiny wire plus a micro cam (0 BD Z4). Mantle onto that good hold to a good left gaston. Place crappy gear in the tiny flake above your head. There is also a good but blindly placed red ballnut in the seam to your right. Now its time for "THE HIGH STEP" which is kind of crux 1.5 and feels like your gonna slip. Do that move and then reach some thanks god gear placements (0.4-0.5 BD C4) and a good rest right underneath the main crux.

Place a good micro cam in the seam, clip the manky piton nest and go for it using compression moves, sloppy holds, a heel hook, a rose move and more sloppy holds to finally reach a jug. Reestablish yourself above the crux and place a good cam (0.75 BD C4). Compose yourself and climb an easier section until you reach "THE HEINOUS FINGERLOCK", then climb the roof to a no-hand rest at the horizontal with good gear. Take a few good breath and get ready for the headwall. Climb to the bolt and clip it, or not, then fire the pumpy upper section. There are a few available RP's but they are quite strenuous to place.

LOCATION The route follows a system of seem for its entire length. It starts on the spacious ledge to the right of the Marie 4 Poche/Cordonnier buttress. Start about 40 ft right of the Cordonnier corner.