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Grade Route

Named after a huge gooseberry bush once found in the final pitch chimney, this is a classic multipitch, as much for its location as the quality of the rock. The route does not rely on very much gear, having been bolted fairly liberally over the years.

All belay stations are bolted.

Approach: from the intersection of Tunnel Mountain Road and Drive, walk across the open field to the far right corner. Take the trail down and left towards the left-end of Tunnel Mountain. Contour across until you reach the cliff, go a bit farther, and arrive at the start -- the name is scratched in the rock.

Start at the name scratched in the rock.

  1. 5.4 30m. Climb easy slab right of the corner past some fixed gear to a belay station to the right.

  2. 5.6 40m. Move up and left to a bit of a ramp to a large right-facing corner. Arrive at a treed ledge and bolted belay behind the trees.

  3. 5.8 45m. Start left of the belay, climb up and left to a left-facing corner. Avoid following the bolts out left, or on the slab left of the corner -- but pull into the corner itself where there's a fixed piton. Climb up the corner past some bolts, then up the wall above (more bolts) to a belay to the right.

  4. 5.6 25m. Pull up and left over a small bulge, then up and left to a left-facing corner. Continue up this to a bolted belay on a ledge (there are two, seperated by a few meters and a bolt).

  5. 5.8 50m. Climb up the bolted face, passing excellent chert edges in the second half of the pitch to a bolted anchor -- clip this long, then traverse up and right on the large sloping ledge to another anchor.

  6. 5.7 35m. Move up and left on rough rock to a groove capped by a roof. Go up this to a piton, then branch left following bolts to an anchor on a ledge, once again clip this long then traverse rightwards to the belay.

  7. 5.7 35m. Move left and then do some awkward moves (at a bolt) into the chimney. A few meters up the chimney, follow bolts left on an easy ramp then up over more chert ledges to a chain belay; once again clip and continue up towards the trees, where there is a bolted belay on a big boulder.

Descent: walk up to the tourist trail, then descend it. Walk along the road back to the car.

FA: Lloyd MacKay & Ken Baker, 1967

Set: Lloyd MacKay & Ken Baker, 1967

1 5.9
2 5.10a
3 5.10d
4 5.10a
5 5.9
6 5.10c/d
7 5.9
8 5.10b

Route starts to the right of a little cave about 50m left of Gooseberry. Beware of loose rock. This is a fantastic route with each pitch being better than the last. Bring a lot of quickdraws if you intend to combine pitches.

  1. 30m of 5.9 climbing up a loose-ish corner to a belay.

  2. 20m of 10a trending right through a small corner and bulge to belay.

  3. 25m of solid 10d/11a climbing straight up leads to a ledge. This pitch is well protected and the crux can be aided or French freed if need be.

  4. 30m 10a. Keep left (Gooseberry is on the right) and and follow the bolts on up.

  5. 40m 5.9. Traverse left to a steep roof protected by bolts. There is one fixed piton but no need to clip it. Stem the roof and head up the slab, up and then right past a pair of bolts to the second pair of anchor bolts. There will be one pair of bolts to your left and a chain about 10m to your right.

  6. 30m of hard 10c/d follows the line of bolts up and right. Keep a lookout for small key holds and trust your feet. Pitch ends on a hanging belay on a detached block .

  7. 20m of 5.8 climbing. Step right off the block and follow the bolts up. This pitch is easier than it looks however it is very exposed. Head on up to chains.

  8. 30m 10b. Move left from the chains and blindly traverse past three bolts, making a few burly moves to pull over a bulge. Follow the bolts up through chert bands to chains. Belay your follower further up to gain the hikers trail to the carpark.

FA: Joe McKay, 2009

  1. 30 m, 5.10c or 10d

  2. 30 m, 5.10a/b

  3. 30 m, 5.7

  4. 20 m, 5.8

  5. 30m, 5.9

  6. 20m, 5.10b

  7. 30m, 5.10 a/b

  8. 30m, 5.9

  9. 15m, 5.8

Scramble up/walk off for 50m to rejoin Tunnel Mountain Hiking Trail.

FA: Chris Perry & Brian Wyvill, Aug 2016


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