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1
YDS
5.8

Seasonality

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Approach

From the north-east corner of the power station, follow the sand road up and right, then branch left below the power lines. After a few hundred meters look for a climbers' trail that goes through the woods, then scramble up the (loose) talus. The climb will most likely be to your right as you exit the talus. It starts up a rounded buttress.

Descent notes

There is a hiker's trail to the top -- keep left at each branch, and it will bring you out at the power station.

Ethic inherited from West Kootenays

Be mindful of wildlife, especially in more remote areas.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5.8 40m
2 5.7 40m
3 5.4 30m
4 5.6 30m
5 5.8 52m
6 5.8 40m
7 5.8 30m
8 5.5 25m
9 5.5 35m

A bit sparsely bolted, but generally the bolt is there when you need it. If you can't spot the next bolt, taking the path of least resistance will generally work out well.

  1. 40m 5.8 8 bolts. Mostly easy going with a couple of short 5.8 sections up the buttress to a comfortable ledge belay.

  2. 40m 5.7 7 bolts. Similar climbing up the buttress. Finish the pitch with a short right-wards traverse on thin hands but good feet.

  3. 30m 5.4 4 bolts. Head left up the blunt ridge between the gully to the right and the main drop to the left. Belay under an overhang.

  4. 35m 5.6 4 bolts. Continue up the ridge on mostly easy ground.

  5. 50m 5.8 11 bolts. This is not the same 5.8 as pitch 1. Go about 10m more up the ridge watching the wall across the gully for your first bolt. If the rock starts to become mossy, you've probably gone to far. Step across the gully, wish for a stick clip, then head upwards, trending right. Sustained 5.8 climbing. Belay under a small overhang.

  6. 40m 5.8 8 bolts. Step right around the corner then head up trending left. at bolt 7 traverse right past one more bolt to the anchor. Long draws on bolt 1 and bolt 7 (before the traverse) will help to mitigate your rope drag.

  7. 30m 5.8 6 bolts. Climb the steep slab to a juggy roof.

  8. 25m 5.5 5 bolts. Climb the easy slabs to a large tree.

  9. 40m. No bolts. Maybe 1 piton. Mostly 3rd and 4th class up the sandy groove and blocks. Short (8m?) steep section, with gear protection options, can be climbed at something from 5.2 to 5.5. Belay on single bolt above steep section.

  10. 40m More 3rd and 4th class scrambling before it drops to 2nd class.

Descend by obvious hikers trail, keeping left at the junctions.

FA: D Lussier, C Trescher & S King, 2008

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