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Description
A 300 m high west face with numerous routes, and the much hyped south ridge in a beautiful setting. Generally solid gneiss. A guidebook is in the pipeline by D.Lussier, but some information on mountainproject or in the West Kootenay rock guide ( though this isn't exactly accurate)
Access issues inherited from Valhalla Provincial Park
Area is in a provincial park, but access is via a logging road. High clearance vehicle recommended, give way to logging trucks. Radio up and down if possible.
Approach
1-2 hour
About 2 hour walk from car park even with camping gear. Summit height 2700 m. Ice axes and crampons needed for descent in early season.
Descent notes
From the summit, walk down the cairned trail to the north for 50 m and then down the east ridge. Two thirds of the way down cut back towards south ridge across talus. It is possible to go higher and abseil. Assess it before you go up. Can rap on slings with a single 60m rope from the third belay of the south ridge or from the Lunch Ledge with doubles. Dark side of the Moon has had a rap descent installed and Lusting after women can be rappelled from the top of pitch 4
Ethic inherited from West Kootenays
Be mindful of wildlife, especially in more remote areas.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Rich Wheater
Date: 2015
ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6
With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.
- Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
- Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
- Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end
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| 5.10a | ★★★ South Ridge |
Tue 25 Apr
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