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Access issues inherited from 大理 Dali

Routes

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Climb the tufa straight off the ground to a cruxy 4th bolt. There may be an easier way to do the crux. Rest in the cave before continuing through another crux and an interesting finish. Be very careful clipping the third bolt, as Adam almost took a ground fall on the attempted first ascent after a blown foothold.

FA: Dane

Climb straight up through some massive ledges, into some nice cracks, then up onto the ledges on the left. If possible, clip the anchor from inside the cave rather than from the chossy rock pile to the right.

FA: Adam & Ahui, 2008

Shares an anchor with Hand-Jamming for Dummies.

FA: Adam & Ahui, 2008

This route is perhaps the most fun in Shuanglang, interesting moves the whole way up. Just be aware of the massive block on the ledge that may be standing on to clip the anchor.

FA: Adam & Ahui

This route shares an anchor with “If you bolt it, they will come” though it is definitely less interesting.

FA: Adam

Some tricky moves down low lead to fun 5.5 moves on the second half. A little dirty at parts.

FFA: Ofir

FA: Adam, 2010

Short route with a high first bolt.

FA: LiuYong, 2009

Cruxy second clip. Finishes at the tufa, high and off to the right, with a pumpy second half.

FA: Adam

Weak beginning but an interesting crux.

FA: Dane

Crux is harder for short climbers. Nesting birds make full “use” of this route during some parts of the year.

FA: Adam

Pumpy and sustained with great moves the whole way.

This route shares the first two bolts with stairmaster. Mind the loose block below the chimney.

FA: Adam

It’s possible to climb stairmaster all the way to the top before moving into the second half of Millenium Falcon. Done this way, the crux is bypassed but the route is still quality!

FA: Dane

This route is pretty unique at Shuanglang; don’t be fooled by the low angle.

FFA: Roman

FA: Adam

Slabby route with a few nice holds, about 15m down the hill, to the right of stairmaster. Scary crux.

FA: Drew

Down and around the corner from Tainted Heart.

FA: Reshi

There are a couple of ways to climb this one. Be careful clipping the first bolt.

FA: Dane

Great line! Don’t be deterred by the chossy bottom. Avoid going left near the top. Hard to clip anchor.

FA: Adam

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