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Access issues inherited from 大理 Dali

Routes

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Grade Route

From right to left 从右到左

Crux used to be much easier, until a crucial flake was pulled off. Very reachy.

FA: Nicole

This is probably the best route of the four at the “girlfriend cliff.” Good climbing with the crux at the last move.

FA: Dane

The start for this route is annoying/scary because of the band of choss that runs across it.

FA: Amir

The choss band runs across this route as well, but there is some sweet tufa climbing above.

FA: Dane

Full-on, right from the start, though the crux is higher-up. Powerful climbing leads to delicate crux.

FA: Dane

Start by climbing the tufa and join the groove up the start of Mel’s Exciting Crack. Reach out right to clip the bolts and then break right for a relentless series of moves. Interesting and varied climbing leads to a beautiful crux move near the top. Awesome.

FA: Amir

Thrust up a ledge into a groove, and then up into the wide crack. Excellent climbing that is perhaps a little run-out. Guaranteed excitement.

FA: Dane

Scramble up the short section of somewhat dirty rock to a wonderful and clean dihedral adventure.

FA: Nicole

A very hard start. Glorious and dynamic slab, tufa, and stalactite climbing above.

Super sustained climbing using crimps, jugs, slopers, and hand-jams. Shares an anchor with PROJECT2.

FA: Amir

Start to the right of the obvious tufa line of L.D.G. Balance and crimp strength will see you through the crux and lead you to a choose-your-own-adventure pocket finish.

FA: Amir

A beautiful tufa line which leads to a large ominous stalactite. This is one of the gems of Shuang Lang.

FA: Amir

A hard start brings you to stimulating and pleasant dihedral and face climbing. The relaxed climbing comes to an end when you reach the upper crux, an Über -technical stemming dance up a featureless overhanging corner. Gym climbers beware.

FA: Dane

TRADITIONAL CLIMB with bolted anchor Clip the first few bolts of Scaling the Walls of Mordor and then head bravely into wild, unbolted territory. Good gear and decent rests. The top part of the crack is about as good as limestone crack climbing gets. Falls have been taken, and yes, the gear does hold. Bring gear to 3 inches. If you have no cams, nuts, or ovaries, then you can also climb Scaling the Walls of Mordor and lower into the anchor of this climb to set up a top-rope. But that would be lame.

FA: Dane

Head up the groove at the bottom of a large crack and move left with difficulty to establish on the left side of the wall. Climbing sharp black rock for a few bolts is rewarded with great orange rock above.

FA: Dane

Climb up the overhanging arête with powerful and precise movement to a fantastic and sustained face and arête climb.

FA: Amir

Climb up the right side of the face, using the arête when necessary. Crimpy face climbing. One section of sharp crimps deters from the otherwise pleasant climbing.

FA: Amir

Climb up the big block to start and then go up the middle of the wall. Follow the crimpy slopers to the tufas, pull over the dirty tufas to an easy ride to the finish.

FA: Amir

Climb up the big block and move into the corner. Stemming, tufas, and hidden pockets, this route has it all. A delightful climb at an accessible grade.

FA: Dane

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