一楼 Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

循风(Jason) Stefan P. Chris_zzz Bing 坤猪昊勤彭ㄎ Climber-皮蛋阿恺丁韶兴

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1. 一楼 / First Floor 26 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. 一楼 26 routes in Sector

Summary:

Seasonality

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 40.128177, 116.081108

description

From right to left

access issues

2019.4 路书 Topo 提取码: iab3

抱石路书密码:oeut

inherited from 后花园 Backyard Garden

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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1	★ 我的世界一楼最右边的路线，俯角，夹角，线路简单，适合新手进行攀爬练习。 Set: 木子鱼, 2014	5.9	Sport 14m, 5
2	★★ Айляк в Пекин / Chill out Beijing On the left of 我的世界. Good route to start learning traditional climbing. Gear recommendation: #1, #.4, #2 and #3 BD cams. Finishes on the anchor of 我的世界. Respectively begginer trad climbers can toprope pre-place gear and climb it like a sport route or just practice placements on toprope from 我的世界. FFA: 26 Jun 2022	5.9	Trad 15m
3	★★ 1 Set: John, 2014	5.11d	Sport 8m, 4
4	★★ 2 Set: John, 2014	5.10a	Trad 8m
5	★★ 3 Set: 陈晖 & 阿关, 2014	5.7	Mixed trad 10m, 1
6	4 Set: 陈晖 & 阿关, 2014	5.8	Trad 10m
7	5 Set: John, 2014	5.11a	Trad 16m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
8	★★ 废物 6号线右边的一条路线，未在路书上，屋檐风格。与木子鱼联系，知道该路线应该还是由John开设，不知道名字，但他们自己称该线路为“废物”，因此改名。 Set: John	5.11c/d	Sport 15m
9	★★ 6 Set: 陈晖 & 阿关, 2014	5.10a	Sport 15m, 8
10	7 Set: John, 2014		TradProject 17m
11	★★ 8 Set: John, 2014	5.11a	Sport 18m, 7
12	9 前段slab有3个blots Set: John, 2014	5.10d	Mixed trad 20m, 3
13	10 Set: John, 2014	5.12a	Trad 17m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
14	★★ 11 Set: John, 2014	5.11b/c	Sport 17m, 6
15	★★ 12 Set: John, 2014	5.11d	Sport 17m, 5
16	13 Set: John, 2014	5.12a	Sport 17m, 6
17	★ 14 Warning Rock: 落石风险 Set: John, 2014	5.10a	Sport 16m, 5
18	★ 15 Warning Rock: 可能落石！ Set: John, 2014	5.10d	Sport 16m, 6
19	★★ 16 Set: John, 2014	5.11b/c	Sport 16m, 5
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
20	17 Set: John, 2014	5.10a	Trad 13m
21	★ Сврака/Magpie/鹊 Warning The route at this point has an unprotected slab section at the start that leads to the crack, that is also the crux. To safely climb please preplace gear at the start of the crack ! It is another extension of route 17. Finishes at the base of the tower. Gear recommendation double #.3-2 single 3-4. Length is marked from the ground. FA: Stefan & XueMei	5.10b	Trad 35m
22	★★ Crow Tower This is an extension of the route 17. The length is marked from the ground up. 5.10a 33m. Finishes at the base of the tower. 5.10d 12m. 4 bolts, boulder problem highly typical for John's style. Gear recommendation: #.3-4 BD, few long and short slings. FA: John Duran, Stefan & Punk	5.10d	Mixed trad 45m, 2, 4
23	Славей/有鸣仓庚 It starts behind the right corner at the onset of the second pitch of Crow Tower. It tops out on the second floor. The route starts with 7-8m of a corner crag that takes #3-4 BD cams. The second half is a slab with 3 bolts and an anchor. Together with Crow Tower it makes for a nice trad multi-pitch. FFA: Stefan & XueMei, 31 May 2023	5.10c/d	Mixed trad 18m, 3
24	★ 18 Set: John, 2014	5.12a	Sport 12m, 3
25	★ 开门 / 19 第一个挂片很高，建议使用挂绳器。难点beta from 超然 Set: John, 2014	5.12d	Sport 12m, 3
26	20 一楼最左边的路线，起步有一棵树。 Set: 陈晖 & 阿关, 2014	5.8	Sport 18m, 6

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
5.7	★★	3	Mixed trad 10m, 1
5.8		20	Sport 18m, 6
		4	Trad 10m
5.9	★★	Айляк в Пекин	Trad 15m
	★	我的世界	Sport 14m, 5
5.10a	★	14	Sport 16m, 5
		17	Trad 13m
	★★	2	Trad 8m
	★★	6	Sport 15m, 8
5.10b	★	Сврака/Magpie/鹊	Trad 35m
5.10c/d		Славей/有鸣仓庚	Mixed trad 18m, 3
5.10d	★	15	Sport 16m, 6
		9	Mixed trad 20m, 3
	★★	Crow Tower	Mixed trad 45m, 2, 4
5.11a		5	Trad 16m
	★★	8	Sport 18m, 7
5.11b/c	★★	11	Sport 17m, 6
	★★	16	Sport 16m, 5
5.11c/d	★★	废物	Sport 15m
5.11d	★★	1	Sport 8m, 4
	★★	12	Sport 17m, 5
5.12a		10	Trad 17m
		13	Sport 17m, 6
	★	18	Sport 12m, 3
5.12d	★	开门	Sport 12m, 3
?		7	TradProject 17m