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Description

岩场由该区域的一条传统裂缝“百鸟朝凤”命名,开线者称其为北京最牛裂缝,又因此名,该区域所有路线名称都有“鸟”字。

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: 貔貅

FA: 南华

树作为保护站

use tree as anchor.

烟囱+slab,非常好玩的一条线。曾有老炮质疑在起步的烟囱打钉,或许在不久的将来烟囱旁的bolt会被拆除变为一条Mix路线。

Begins with a few short bouldery and offwidth sections before progressing to face slab climbing.

FA: Annie

只有顶,位于百鸟朝凤裂缝线路和小鸟依人之间。

线路起步还有明显的脚点,往上纯光板

长度40米,整条缝少见地从巨大的花岗岩山体中间裂开,开线者称其为北京最牛裂缝线路。前半段有一小节指缝,通过之后一马平川,后半段完美掌缝而且俯角。

建议C4:Triple:.3-.5,Double:.75-3。

70米的绳子站在真正起步攀爬的地方保护勉强够用,注意一定打绳尾结!

FFA: 周鹏, Apr 2020

FA: 周鹏, Apr 2020

1 5.6 12m
2 5.9 10m
  1. 12m 5.6

  2. 10m 5.9

  3. under dev...

树做保护站

use tree as anchor.

FA: 亚威

FA: 喳喳

FA: 亚威

FA: 亚威

1 5.10d 27m
2 5.7 25m
3 5.8 23m
4 5.8 25m
5 5.10b 27m
  1. 8 bolts+anchor(or tree) 27m 5.10d

  2. 7 bolts 25m 5.7

  3. 7 bolts 23m 5.8

  4. 8 bolts 25m 5.8

  5. 10 bolts 27m 5.10b

重要

线路说明(From 貔貅 ):

第一段可以从12号线起步,就是五段纯运动攀,第一段的中间用扁带绕树做保护点,继续往上经过三个挂片,到13号线的顶是第一段的结束。第一段也可以从13号线越鸟巢南枝起步,是MIX线路。

第一段中间部分有两棵树,靠上边的小树,感觉快要连根掉了,做保护要慎重,这里需要用树做保护,上面的挂片距离很远。从树往上的第一个挂片处,原来的大点被拉掉,难度待升级(10C?)。

从13号线第一段的顶,往上分为两条线路,走左侧是日暮望归鸟,纯运动,走右侧是越鸟巢南枝,运动加传统。

第二段线路很愉快,但是路线是往左斜的,尽量避免冲坠。挂片位置已经考虑了冲坠,但是千万不要在挂绳子的时候掉,如果这样掉的话,会掉到下面的屋檐下,屋檐的棱很有可能切断绳子。

爬完在第二段下降的时候,第一个人下降在倒数第一个挂片扣一半快挂,到保护站之后拉着绳子,第二个人下降的时候拆除引导快挂。

整条线路上升加下降总用时预计4~5小时,线路有爆点风险,先锋需要慎重。

注意事项1:

多段攀爬时,底下爬单段的人也要注意安全,有落石风险。

注意事项2:

人少的时候,背包不宜留在地面无人看管,此处是凤凰岭热门徒步线路,装备可能被路人拿走。可以放到第一段线路中间树做保护站处。

English beta:

Pitch 1 follows past the anchor of route 12, using slings on the trees as protection, and continuing upward for 3 bolts to the anchor. These last 3 bolts constitute the crux of pitch 1, upgraded to 5.10(D?) after a hold fell off.

For beginners the crux of pitch 1 can be climbed around by using the boulder directly above the tree.

From the anchor of pitch 1, pitch 2 follows the route to the left, comprising the easiest pitch of this classic. The route to the right is the second pitch of the mixed sport and trad multipitch 越鸟巢南枝.

Pitch 3 requires using small fragile crystals for holds with quite a distance between some quick draws, may feel a bit sketchy for some beginners.

Pitch 4 is pure balancy slab, by this time your feet will be quite pumped and it may feel difficult for the grade.

Pitch 5 starts with a traverse to the right for the first quickdraw, take care with this section not to fall below the belay point. Following the traverse section, climb directly upward for the final beautiful pitch of this classic multipitch.

At the top it is possible to de-rope and walk around the peak, or enjoy a lunch backed by a panoramic view of the park with Beijing city in the background.

Recommend descending by rappel, but a hike down is also possible. In total the climb should take 4-5 hours.

Note: On weekends the crag is frequented by local hiking groups, if you are concerned about your gear's safety whilst climbing, bags can be left at the two trees toward the top of pitch 1.

FFA: 周鹏 & Annie

1 5.9 27m
2 5.7 30m
3 5.8 28m
4 5.10b 20m
  1. Mix 27m 5.9

  2. Sport 30m 5.7 10Bolts

  3. Trad 28m 5.8

  4. Sport 20m 5.10b 6Bolts

FFA: 南华, 西狂 & 星越

FFA: 正前

FA: 正前

FFA: 江城子

slab研究所左边

FA: 喳喳

FA: 噗通

经典的slab,会让你重新认识摩擦力

FA: 噗通

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