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Great Arch Guide

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 217
  • Aka: 穿上洞

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Shadow Bing Ian 溫翊恩 Marc dM Constantine Dritsas Ryan Weller Mathew Hutchins-Read 循风(Jason) José Taulis

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Great Arch 60 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 25.686105, 106.270306

summary

Great Arch is a not-to-be-missed experience. The climbing here is demanding, often puzzling, but always technical and aesthetic. More than one hundred pitches from 5c to 9a just waiting to be climbed

description

15 quickdraws and 60m rope

access issues

inherited from 格凸 Getu

ethic

Sports Climbing

inherited from 格凸 Getu

1.1. Left Side 37 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 25.686198, 106.270306

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abond route 阿邦线

Set: Abond

{FR} 8a Sport
2 Mi cosita Meona 我的小Meona

Set: Jean-Luc Jeunet & danieldulac, 2011

Set: Andoni Perez, 2011

{FR} 8a+ Sport 3
3 La Rubia Flaca 苗条金发美女

Same top with second pitch of Corazon de Ensueno

Set: Dani Andrada, 2011

{FR} 8a+ Sport 2
4 5 times Sta Linya 5倍于Santa Linya

Same top with first pitch of Corazon de Ensueno

Set: Dani Andrada, 2011

{FR} 7a+ Sport
5 Corazón de Ensueño / 梦想之心

«BRUTAL ! INHUMANO !» Dani Andrada, a climber who ordinarily keeps his emotions to himself, is unable to find the words to express his enthusiasm for Great Arch’s exceptional potential. With brilliance and audacity Andrada rivals Daniel Dulac’s “La Voie du Milieu,” Stéphanie Bodet’s and Arnaud Petit’s “Lost in Translation,” Yann Ghesquiers’ and Tom Collet’s “Brazilian Fuse,” by putting up “Corazon de Ensueno,” perhaps the most overhanging route in the world… Enjoy!

Alex Honnold & Felipe Camargo 二攀

Set: Dani Andrada, 2011

FFA: Dani Andrada, 2011

{FR} 8c Sport 240m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Lost in China 迷失在中国

Set: Guido Unterwurzacher, 2011

{FR} 8b Sport
7 Powder Finger 粉指

Set: Gerhard Hörhager, 2011

{FR} 8c+ Sport 2
8 Polvo Tecnico 镁粉

Set: Dani Andrada & Yann Ghesquiers, 2011

{FR} 8c+ Sport
9 Coup de Bambou 最后一根稻草

Set: Mickaël Fuselier

FA: Gabriele Moroni, 2011

{FR} 9a Sport 30m
10 No Name (Right of Bambou) FR:8c Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Nudel Power 面条力量

Set: Andoni Perez & Olivier Lavoisey, 2011

{FR} 6a+ Sport 12m
12 Skype Forever 永远的Skype

Set: Olivier Lavoisey & Andoni Perez, 2011

{FR} 5c Sport 12m
13 Business in China 中国业务

Set: Dani Andrada, 2011

{FR} 6a+ Sport 18m, 7
14 Autoctono 自制力

Set: Toni Arbonés, 2011

{FR} 7c+ Sport
15 Australian Supermarket 澳洲超市

Set: Guido Unterwurzacher, 2011

{FR} 8b Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Dunman 遁门

Good climbing on mostly sloping pockets. Shares anchor with Busines in China

Set: Duncan, 2011

{FR} 7a Sport 15m
17 La Piscineta Cina 儿童泳池

Set: Dani Andrada, 2011

{FR} 7b+ Sport
18 Alta Compresion 高度压缩

Set: Andoni Perez & Olivier Lavoisey, 2011

{FR} 8b Sport
19 SAR or die 救援或死亡

Set: Olivier Lavoisey & Andoni Perez, 2011

{FR} 6a+ Sport 7
20 Ain't no Sunshine 没太阳

Set: Gerhard Hörhager, 2011

{FR} 8a Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Se Souvenir des Belles Choses 美好回忆

Set: Serge Casteran, 2011

{FR} 6b+ Sport
22 Kan Bu Dong 看不懂

Set: Aleksendra Przybysz, 2011

{FR} 7a Sport
23 Variation 变奏

Set: Aleksendra Przybysz, 2011

Sport

1.1.1. Valhalla 14 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 25.686215, 106.269616

description

9a+ 454m

The route starts on the left, goes up, crosses the roof and end on the other side of the arch. The line is totally independent and doesn't cross any exisiting route.

history

Established ground-up though the roof by Edu Marin.

Valhalla, cielo de roca (2020) | Official trailer

Whole route FA by Edu on Mar 20, 2019.

YouTube Valhalla - Full Movie from YouTube Edu Marin

哔哩哔哩 Valhalla - Full Movie from YouTube Edu Marin

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pitch 1

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FR:7b+ Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Pitch 2

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FR:7a Sport
3 Pitch 3

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FR:8a+ Sport
4 Pitch 4

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FR:7c+ Sport
5 Odin's Crack / Pitch 5

Set: Edu Marin, Mar 2018

FFA: Edu Marin, 19 Feb 2019

FR:9a+ Sport 35m
6 Pitch 6

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FR:8b+ Sport
7 Pitch 7

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FR:8a Sport
8 Thor / Pitch 8

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FA: Edu Marin, Dec 2018

FR:8c+ Sport
9 Pitch 9

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FR:8a+ Sport
10 Pitch 10

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FR:8b Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Bifrost / Pitch 11

Set: Edu Marin, 2018

FA: Edu Marin, Jan 2019

FR:8a+ Sport
12 Pitch 12 / Valkirias FR:8c+ Sport
13 Pitch 13 FR:8a+ Sport
14 Pitch 14 FR:8a+ Sport

1.2. Right Side 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 25.685964, 106.270120

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Everybody catch a cold 大家都感冒了

Set: Erwan Le Lann, 2011

{FR} 6c Sport
2 Full Body Massage 全身按摩

Set: Martial Dumas, 2011

{FR} 7b Sport
3 Go to Hell 见鬼去吧

Set: Erwan Le Lann, 2011

{FR} 6b+ Sport
4 Chérie Chérie 亲爱的

P1 6c, P2 left 6b, P2 right 6b

Set: Martial Dumas, 2011

{FR} 6c Sport 2
5 Spicy Breakfast 辣早餐

Set: Seb Foissac, 2011

{FR} 6c Sport
6 Chinese Men 中国男人

Set: Seb Foissac, 2011

{FR} 7a Sport
7 Elodie 爱老妹

Set: Seb Foissac, 2011

{FR} 6b+ Sport 12m
8 Mateo Traverse 马提欧横移

Set: Seb Foissac, 2011

{FR} 5a Sport
9 Niu tou 牛头

Set: Gerhard Hörhager, 2011

{FR} 6b Sport 27m
10 King of Guano 粪王 / 蝙蝠粪之王

Set: Seb Foissac, 2011

{FR} 6b Sport 25m
11 Candide 老实人

Set: Martial Dumas, 2011

{FR} 7a Sport
12 Capucine 法国女星卡普辛

Set: Seb Foissac, 2011

{FR} 7b Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Sushisson / 寿司村

直上然后右拐,右拐前左边有一个多的没用挂片

Set: Gilles Crenn, 2011

{FR} 6b Sport 22m, 10
14 Dragon Bolt Z 七龙钉

Set: Gilles Crenn, 2011

{FR} 6c Sport 13m, 5
15 J'ai Volé mon Ame à un Clown 小丑偷了我的灵魂

Set: Gilles Crenn & Serge Casteran, 2011

{FR} 6b+ Sport 23m, 10
16 Chinese Girl 中国姑娘

Set: Serge Casteran

{FR} 7c+ Sport
17 Drill Team 开线队伍

Set: Serge Casteran, 2011

{FR} 7c+ Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Patate Douce 红薯

Set: Arnaud Petit, 2011

{FR} 7a Sport
19 Dancing with the Dust 与尘共舞

Set: Stéphanie Bodet, 2011

{FR} 8b+ Sport
20 Ceramic House 瓷砖房

Set: Aleksendra Przybysz, 2011

{FR} 6a Sport
21 Lost in Translation 词不达译

The first route put up in the fall of 2010. A spectacular and challenging line. Repeated by Yann Ghesquiers and Dani Andrada in the spring of 2011, a masterpiece so we’re told.

Set: Arnaud Petit & Stéphanie Bodet, 2010

{FR} 8a+ Sport 180m, 4, 16
22 The Brazilian Fuse

Named because of Marcos Costa, who daringly jugged the fixed lines left by his predecessors. An outstanding route for the grade, it should become a classic.

Set: Yann Ghesquiers & Tom Collet, 2011

{FR} 7b Sport 180m, 4, 14
23 Dos Forasteros en la Selva 森林里的俩陌生人

A big thanks to the first ascensionists for putting up a route for the average “mortal” climber. With a consistent rating from bottom to top, this is an outstanding climb.

建议使用80米的绳,线路微仰角,再加上很多横移,下降需要费点功夫。

Set: Olivier Lavoisey & Andoni Perez, 2011

{FR} 6c+ Sport 150m, 4, 14

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5a Mateo Traverse 马提欧横移 Sport 1.2. Right Side
5c Skype Forever 永远的Skype Sport 12m 1.1. Left Side
6a Ceramic House 瓷砖房 Sport 1.2. Right Side
6a+ Business in China 中国业务 Sport 18m, 7 1.1. Left Side
Nudel Power 面条力量 Sport 12m 1.1. Left Side
SAR or die 救援或死亡 Sport 7 1.1. Left Side
6b King of Guano 粪王 Sport 25m 1.2. Right Side
Niu tou 牛头 Sport 27m 1.2. Right Side
Sushisson Sport 22m, 10 1.2. Right Side
6b+ Se Souvenir des Belles Choses 美好回忆 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Elodie 爱老妹 Sport 12m 1.2. Right Side
Go to Hell 见鬼去吧 Sport 1.2. Right Side
J'ai Volé mon Ame à un Clown 小丑偷了我的灵魂 Sport 23m, 10 1.2. Right Side
6c Chérie Chérie 亲爱的 Sport 2 1.2. Right Side
Dragon Bolt Z 七龙钉 Sport 13m, 5 1.2. Right Side
Everybody catch a cold 大家都感冒了 Sport 1.2. Right Side
Spicy Breakfast 辣早餐 Sport 1.2. Right Side
6c+ Dos Forasteros en la Selva 森林里的俩陌生人 Sport 150m, 4, 14 1.2. Right Side
7a Dunman 遁门 Sport 15m 1.1. Left Side
Kan Bu Dong 看不懂 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Pitch 2 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Candide 老实人 Sport 1.2. Right Side
Chinese Men 中国男人 Sport 1.2. Right Side
Patate Douce 红薯 Sport 1.2. Right Side
7a+ 5 times Sta Linya 5倍于Santa Linya Sport 1.1. Left Side
7b Capucine 法国女星卡普辛 Sport 1.2. Right Side
Full Body Massage 全身按摩 Sport 1.2. Right Side
The Brazilian Fuse Sport 180m, 4, 14 1.2. Right Side
7b+ La Piscineta Cina 儿童泳池 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Pitch 1 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
7c+ Autoctono 自制力 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Pitch 4 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Chinese Girl 中国姑娘 Sport 1.2. Right Side
Drill Team 开线队伍 Sport 1.2. Right Side
8a Abond route 阿邦线 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Ain't no Sunshine 没太阳 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Pitch 7 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
8a+ La Rubia Flaca 苗条金发美女 Sport 2 1.1. Left Side
Mi cosita Meona 我的小Meona Sport 3 1.1. Left Side
Bifrost Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Pitch 13 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Pitch 14 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Pitch 3 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Pitch 9 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Lost in Translation 词不达译 Sport 180m, 4, 16 1.2. Right Side
8b Alta Compresion 高度压缩 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Australian Supermarket 澳洲超市 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Lost in China 迷失在中国 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Pitch 10 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
8b+ Pitch 6 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Dancing with the Dust 与尘共舞 Sport 1.2. Right Side
8c Corazón de Ensueño Sport 240m, 8 1.1. Left Side
No Name (Right of Bambou) Sport 1.1. Left Side
8c+ Polvo Tecnico 镁粉 Sport 1.1. Left Side
Powder Finger 粉指 Sport 2 1.1. Left Side
Pitch 12 Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
Thor Sport 1.1.1. Valhalla
9a Coup de Bambou 最后一根稻草 Sport 30m 1.1. Left Side
9a+ Odin's Crack Sport 35m 1.1.1. Valhalla
? Variation 变奏 Sport 1.1. Left Side
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