A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
大邑鹤鸣山 He Ming Mountain
55 in Area
- 1.1. 猴子岩 Monkey Rock 43 in Crag
- 1.2. 腾龙 Tenglong 12 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. 大邑鹤鸣山 He Ming Mountain 55 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 30.630950, 103.407623
summary
1h 45 mins drive west of Chengdu city. Closest crag to Chengdu.
description
One of two known climbing areas near Chengdu (The other being LuZhou 泸州 which is 2 hours south from Chengdu).
1.1. 猴子岩 Monkey Rock 43 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 30.648105, 103.393574
summary
Conglomerate rock. 2 hours west of Chengdu. Food and accomodation extremely convenient. Large open areas. 20 RMB entry fee. Routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.13d. Sport and trad climbing.
description
The climbing wall is behind the Country Home Inn Qiánjiāzhúyuan 钱家竹苑 at Daping village, in Chinese Dapingcun 大坪村. Dapingcun is on top of Hemingshan. Hemingshan is to the north west of Dayi City 大邑, which lies to the west of Chengdu.10 RMB entry fee into the grounds. The GPS coordinates of the Country Inn are: N30.648980E103.394469, their phone number is: 13458553938.
Developed in cooperation with the local government, the site is also served as a rock climbing training base. There are over 30 bolted sport routes, and room for more on the right part, as well as some cracks which lend themselves to trad and aid climbing. Climbing ranged from 5.5 to 5.13d and above.
Find more information in the following link http://www.8264.com/viewnews-11365-page-7.html
Lots of tour groups coming on weekends to discover climbing. Be prepared for a noisy background while you climb.
access issues
Take a bus to Dayi 大邑. Buses now leave from Shiyang 石羊客运站 and Chadianzi Station 茶店子. We went to Shiyang 石羊客运站 because we did not find out about the other option before going back. Buses from Shiyang take 2:30 h. Busses from Chadianzi (20RMB) 茶店子 take 1:00 h and is directly connected with the subway. From there you have to take the bus number 12 to Hemingshan 鹤鸣山 which is also the last station, about 3 RMB.
The owner of the land asks a 20RMB entry fee from each climber. This is supposed to go to site maintenance and cleaning.
approach
Brisk 3min walk from the carpark of Country Home Inn up to the crag.
where to stay
Accommodation available at Country Home Inn
ethic
Groups often arrive on busses to climb at his crag. There are bins available on site. Use common crag care and clean up after yourself, respect other climbers, do not chip rock face etc
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Xiao Tian / 小天 | 5.10c | 22m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Route 2
Retro bolted. Can take gear. | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Route 3
Retro bolted. Can take gear. | 5.9 | 10m | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Route 4
Face型，坡度85+，岩壁下方为能够容纳二十人的授课区) Face climbing, >85° angled wall. | 5.10d | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Route 5
Short slab to vertical climb that will test your feet work. | 5.10c | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Route 6
Share the same set of anchors as Route 5. | 5.10b | 15m, 6 | |||||
| 7 |
★ Route 7
裂缝加FACE路线，5.9，起步坡度70+，坡度80+，高度20米，距离顶链三米有台阶，适合初学者 | 5.10a | 16m, 7 | |||||
| 8 |
Route 7 (alt. start)
Goes up with the start of route 8, and goes left to get back on route 7 at the third bolt. | 5.6 | ||||||
| 9 | ★ Route 8 | 5.8 | 20m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 10 | ★ Route 9 | 5.10a | 23m | |||||
| 11 | Route 10 | 5.7 | 12m, 4 | |||||
| 12 | ★ Route 10 extension | 5.11c | 22m, 9 | |||||
| 13 | Route 11 | 5.7 | 11m | |||||
| 14 |
★ Route 12
Retrobolted | 5.10c | 24m | |||||
| 15 | ★ Route 13 | 5.12b | 25m, 12 | |||||
| 16 |
Route 14
First anchor available 10 meters below the chain. Can be climbed in two pitches. Share the same anchors as Route 14. (裂缝及夹角路线，5.9，起步坡度70+，平台以上坡度85+，高度24米，距离顶链10米有台阶，可分为两段练结组) | 5.12c | 25m, 9 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 17 | ★★ Taiwan island / 台湾岛 | 5.9 | 25m, 8 | |||||
| 18 |
To be deleted
Variation of route 15, going to the right of the flake. | 5.9 | 25m | |||||
| 19 | ★★ 北面 / Route 16 | 5.11b | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 20 |
★ Route 17
80° angle wall. 裂缝路线，难度5.9，坡度80+，高度24米 | 5.9 | 22m | |||||
| 21 | ★★ Route 18 | 5.13b | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 22 |
Route 19
Open project. | 5.13d | 23m | |||||
| 23 |
Route 20 / 汤圆
FA: Awei | 5.13c | 22m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 24 |
★★ 巴西咖啡 / Route 21
One of the longest pitch at the crag. Crux at around bolt 4, followed by a long power endurance section to a full rest. And a few tricky moves to the chains. | 5.13a | 27m | |||||
| 25 |
★★ Route 22
The overhanging line that goes up to the big tufa. Downgraded to 5.12a | 5.12a | 19m, 11 | |||||
| 26 | Route 23 | 5.13c | 26m | |||||
| 27 | ★★ Route 24 | 5.11a | 25m, 11 | |||||
| 28 | ★★ Route 25 | 5.10a | 24m, 12 | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 29 | Route 26 | 5.7 | 10m | |||||
| 30 | Route 26 extension | 5.10b | 27m | |||||
| 31 | Route 26 (right trad ext) | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
| 32 |
★★ 大松果 / Route 27
5.12d if you don't use the boulder on the left at the start for your feet. Otherwise 5.12b. | 5.12d | 10m, 5 | |||||
| 33 |
★★ Route 28
Follows the arete | 5.12d | 23m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 34 |
★★ Route 29
Open project. No FA yet. Looks like a hard 5.13. | 5.13 | ||||||
| 35 |
★★★ Route 30
Stop at the first set of anchors. The short extension adds 3 bolts of easy climbing and a dodgy anchor. | 5.12d | 25m | |||||
| 36 | ★ Climb Chengdu / 成都攀岩 | 5.13a | 23m | |||||
| 37 |
★★ Left leg / 左腿
Dihedral and a bit of chimney. | 5.10b | 26m | |||||
| 38 | Zhang Shou - Lower part / 胀手-下段 | 5.5 | 15m | |||||
| 39 | ★ Zhang Shou / 胀手 | 5.10b | 26m | |||||
| 40 |
Zhang Shou - Right trad extension / 胀手-传统右段
Go right on the ledge at the top of route 30. | 5.7 | ||||||
| 41 | ★ Route 34 | 5.10a | 12m | |||||
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 42 | ★★ Route 35 | 5.11d | 12m | |||||
| 43 | ★★ Route 36 | 5.11c | 11m | |||||
1.2. 腾龙 Tenglong 12 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 30.645609, 103.386217
summary
Short routes on conglomerate
description
Developed in July 2019. This area is separated into two crags which feature a total of 15 climbs ranging from 5.7 to 5.11+. The routes are short, up to 15 meters and the rock is a conglomerate with limestone features.
access issues
Although the area is located 700 meters from Monkey Crag, there is no similar access issue.
1.2.1. 一号岩区 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 30.645103, 103.387783
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
#1
Set: 邱江 | 5.8 | 13m, 5 | |||
| 2 |
#2
Set: 邱江 | 5.9 | 12m, 5 | |||
| 3 |
#3
Set: 邱江 | 5.9 | 12m, 5 | |||
| 4 | #4 | 5.7 | 10m | |||
| 5 |
#5
Set: 赵四 | 5.10 | 15m, 5 | |||
| 6 |
#6
Set: 赵四 | 5.11- | 15m, 7 | |||
| 7 |
#7
Set: 邱江 | 5.10 | 12m, 5 | |||
1.2.2. 二号岩区 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 30.646101, 103.384334
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
秋天的童话 / #8
Set: 赵四 | 5.10 | 13m, 6 | |||
| 2 |
#9
Set: 赵四 | 5.11- | 13m, 5 | |||
| 3 |
#10
Set: 赵四 | 5.11+ | 13m, 5 | |||
| 4 |
#11
Set: 邱江 | 5.10 | 15m, 8 | |||
| 5 |
#12
Set: 邱江 | 5.11- | 13m, 6 | |||
