白山地区 White Mountain Crags Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. 白山地区 White Mountain Crags 170 routes in Area

1 2 3 6 7 5 4

1 驼背山 Humpback Mountain 2 鸡蛋山 The Egg 3 禽人 Bird Man 4 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned 5 白山 White Mountain 6 高龙洞 Area 51 7 Kiddie Crag

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.723181, 110.527027

access issues

Most local villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. However, certain crags have had historical issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

1.1. 驼背山 Humpback Mountain 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.731475, 110.522518

description

The main feature of Humpback mtn is the huge nose very visible from most parts of the Egg. On approach to the area, it is on the backside of the mtn next to the road...not immediately noticeable. Tuo Bei Shan is home to one of Yangshuo's premier multipitch climbs, Grandfathered In.

approach

Tuo Bei Shan is the right turn 20m before the turn for the egg. Go through the dirt lot with the building on the left, at the bottom of the crag are a bunch of giant bamboo stands, go through the middle of the great bamboo to the wall...and then up up up!!!

1.2. 鸡蛋山 The Egg 49 routes in Crag

3 4 2 1

1 East Face 2 Fantasy Area 3 The Northeast Face 4 West Face

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.729271, 110.517884

summary

山的形状像个鸡蛋，接近方便，中级线路众多，阳朔最受欢迎的岩场之一。

description

There are at least 37 routes on high quality rock with grades ranging from 5.7 to 5.12b. The climbs are mostly single pitch with a few multi pitch routes as well. The crag incorporates the East Face, North East Face, North Face and West Face. Because The Egg faces three sides it is possible to climb in either the sun or shade at any time of the day. The North and West faces stay mostly dry in the rain.

approach

• 百度地图导航到 天井 或高德地图导航到 鸡蛋山 就在路边，沿小径上山1分钟即可到达鸡蛋东北。

Since construction is going on, the book's approach is slightly outdated. Once construction is complete getting to this crag will be much easier. Details about the year it will be complete is unknown.

Unfortunately, this also means that the view is now of dirt roads instead of green fields.

Get onto the G65 towards Ai Shan by turning left at the major intersection. The Vienna International Hotel should be on your left as you make the turn. Stay on this road until you spot a 5 star looking resort/hotel. While it is tempting to turn at this road, turn at the next left which actually has a complete road.

Turn left again and follow this road until you find Banyan Tree. Turn right just before the tree, do not follow the road the tree is on, that's for a different crag. Follow the road and eventually a dirt track will appear on the right. Keep going along this dirt track until you see a blue sign with faces on it. From there just follow the dirt track on foot.

Be careful during the monsoon season, as the mud can be quite slippery for ebikes.

1.2.1. East Face 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.728875, 110.518337

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Crispy FA: Paul Collis, 2007	5.9	Sport 29m, 9
2		★★ Straw Noise Sheep Ernie Technical climbing FA: Simon Wilson, 2005	5.10b	Sport 26m, 7
3		★★★ Eggstatic The 1st pitch is technical climbing on small holds. FA: Simon Wilson	5.11c	Sport 45m, 2, 16
4		★ Chocolate Milk Crack FA: Kalle Viira & Helja Karna, 2005	5.9	Sport 26m, 8
5		★★ Round Table Conference Extension of Chocolate Milk Crack. Set: Zhang Yong, 2013	5.12d	Sport 34m, 17
6		★ Cover Boy Meets Mr Hilti Steep bouldery start FA: Kalle Viira & Helja Karna, 2005	5.9	Sport 26m, 7

1.2.2. Fantasy Area 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.729262, 110.518276

approach

可以由鸡蛋东北前往。

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ The Deviant Direct FA: Paul Collis & Andrew Christensen	5.9	Sport 62m, 3
2		★★ The Never Ending Story Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels. 7 bolts for each pitch. FA: Dave Gliddon & Colton Lindeman	5.10d	Sport 40m, 2, 7
3		★★ Da Moguai 1st pitch as the same as The Never Ending Story. Can be led as one pitch to the top anchor and descended in two rappels. FA: Dave Gliddon & Colton Lindeman	5.11d	Sport 40m, 2
4		★ The Deviant, Original Start This pitch goes to the belay on the large ledge at 25m but if you are not doing the upper pitches you can avoid the traverse by lowering of the belay at 22m. FA: Dan Hannah & Paul Collis	5.9	Sport 22m, 6
5		★★ Tail Spin FA: Paul Collis & Andy Halkyard, 2009	5.11b	Sport 22m, 10
6		★★ Bad Egg FA: Paul Collis & Dan Hannah, 2008	5.11c	Sport 25m, 10
7		★★★ Duck FA: Marshall Balick, JMorris, Paul collis & Bob Keaty	5.11b	Sport 24m, 11
8		★★★ Wonderful World FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2007	5.10d	Sport 30m, 12
9		Pumpy Brewster The big holds are on the left. It follows the obvious arete up the left side of the face -- it would be quite a good route if not for the plethora of large and line-bending holds to the left. The end result is a route that looks pretty nice from the ground, but doesn't climb nearly so nice in practice. FA: Tyson Wallace & Qiu Jiang, 2008	5.10d	Sport 21m, 8
10		★★ Mr Greenwood Shares the start with Pumpy Brewster. FA: Colton Linderman, 2007	5.12b	Sport 21m, 7
11		★ Sha Bi Abi FA: Jen DeRose & Erik Schnack, 2005	5.10a	Sport 21m, 9
12		★★ Absent Friends Shares the start with Sha Bi Abi. Excellent quality technical climbing, don't be put off by the tricky start! FA: Paul Collis & Andrew Christensen, 2007	5.9	Sport 21m, 9
Excess routes The following routes need deleting
14		★★ Corner	{AU} 23	Sport 25m

1.2.3. The Northeast Face 22 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.729666, 110.517900

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Too Much Ecstasy FA: Marisa Field & Claire Tetley, 2007	5.10d	Sport 22m, 9
2		★★ Baozi Bonanza Set: Andrew Hedesh FA: Ryan Weller, 2011	5.10c	Sport 21m, 7
3		★★ Consolation Prize FA: Paul Collis & Kalle Viira, 2006	5.10b	Sport 20m, 7
4		★ Hustler's Roof Shares the start with Consolation Prize. FA: Kalle Viira & Paul Collis, 2006	5.11c	Sport 22m, 9
5		★★ The Way to Helldurado FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006	5.12d	Sport 22m, 11
6		★ The Wiggle / Three's a Crowd FA: Kalle Juhani Viira, 2006	5.12b	Sport 22m, 10
7		★★ Final Decade FA: Kalle Viira & Simon Dilks, 2006	5.10d	Sport 18m, 9
8		★★ New Decade Hard thin face climbing up the pillar right of Final Decade. Shares the start and the chain with Final Decade. FA: Yann Gauthier, 2006	5.12a	Sport 22m, 10
9		★★★ Hanging in the Balance Excellent face climbing, long moves on small holds. FA: Jen DeRose, Kalle Juhani Viira & Erik Schnack, 2005	5.11a	Sport 22m, 8
10		★★ Chuck if Ya want to Warning Fixed Gear: 顶两个梅隆锁挺锈了，要换了 FA: Dave Gliddon, 2005	5.11d	Sport 22m, 9
11		★ All That Heaven Allows Just to the right of Chuck If Ya Want To lies this sweet and short rookie climb inside the cave. there are 2 sets of anchors in the cave, 1 for this short route and the other for toproping the "chimney"	5.6	Sport 10m, 4
12		★★ Poser‘s Lonely Reunion Keep left going around the roof, on the right it’s Way down east 11b FA: Kalle Juhani Viira & Xiao Si, 2006	5.10d	Sport 22m, 9
13		★★★ Strike a Pose Continue past the anchor of PLR for another 4 bolts to the anchor. Steeper climbing on good holds. Set: Andrew FA: Patrick Munnings, 24 Aug 2023	5.11a	Sport 31m, 15
14		★★ 一路向东Way Down East The natural line climbs into Rooster Booster then around the roof and is around 10b/c. Set: Jerry zhong, 2022	5.11b	Sport 33m, 15
15		★★ Rooster Booster FA: Paul Collis & Bob Keaty	5.10b	Sport 31m, 14
16		★★ All the King's Horses FA: Paul COllis & Bob Keaty	5.10a	Sport 27m, 13
17		★ The Jungle Book FA: Rock Abond, 2011	5.11c	Sport 17m, 7
18		★ Fantasia Starts to the left next to Alice in Wonderland. 4 bolts to chains and a bit wet in places. FA: Rock Abond, 2011	5.6	Sport 10m, 4
19		★★ Alice in Wonderland Scarier than it looks. Could be creeping onto 5.9 because of the blank space. Do not be fooled by the grade, requires lots of careful movement. FA: J Viitala, A Halkyard & Paul Collis, 2006	5.8	Sport 9m, 3
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Three new lines next to the road. It's all been cleaned out but there are still some falling stones. Wear a helmet.
21		★★ Unnamed 10b The roof section is probably a bit harder than 10b.	5.10b	Sport 14
22		★★ Unnamed 10b #2 The tallest of the new 3 lines. Very fun! The route says 10 b but it's probably a 10 c.	5.10b	Sport 35m, 16
23		★★ Unnamed 10c Only one hard move. Overall very fun climb.	5.10c	Sport

1.2.4. West Face 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.729539, 110.517326

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Chicken Run FA: Paul Collis & Sarah, 2006	5.10b	Sport 27m, 12
2		★★ Eggstreme Eggsposure Shares the start with Chicken Run. FA: Dave Gliddon, Erik Schnack & Kalle Juhani Viira	5.10b	Sport 27m, 9
3		★★ Handsaw Returns FA: Dave Gliddon, Kalle Juhani Viira & Helija Karna, 2005	5.10a	Sport 27m, 10
4		★★ From Finland With Love FA: Kalle Viira, Simon Dilks & Dave Gliddon, 2005	5.11a	Sport 27m, 10
5		★★ Let Me See Your War Face! FA: Adndrew Hedesh & Andrew Hedesh, 2009	5.11d	Sport 28m, 10
6		★★ Pulling Perfection FA: Dave Gliddon, 2006	5.10c	Sport 27m, 13
7		★★ Helter Incendo Cranking fun! FA: Tyson Wallace, 2006	5.10c	Sport 27m, 9
8		Trust Issues and Scar Tissue	5.9	Trad

1.3. 禽人 Bird Man 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.727533, 110.524585

description

Bird Man is a large impressive South facing cliff that contains some serious multi pitch climbs in the 5.12 range. The Bird Man consists of two sections, the Left Tower and the Right Tower. The cliff takes sun for most of the day.

approach

gaining the base of the wall requires a 5.13 bushwhack for 30m.

1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.714270, 110.529092

description

The Wall of the Damned is on the east side of White Mountain.

1.5. 白山 White Mountain 70 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.715531, 110.522752

description

White Mountain is an impressive crag dominated by harder grade climbs. The massive wall is overhung and the climbing is both physical and sustained. The crag is South facing and is in the sun all day, however during summer some areas are in shade. The crag stays mostly dry during rain. However, if it is raining heavily some parts of the rock will become slick. Choose your climbs carefully!

approach

• 百度地图导航

• 怎么去白山

• From the Deng Long Shan Village veer right onto a smaller road and follow it to where a "Y" intersection with a narrow blue sign is reached. Turn left and follow this into Zhou Sang Village. Where the concrete ends, a dirt track turns right over a small creek and eventually pass Wall of the Damned on your left then cross over a larger second creek. Go Straight at a small intersection, then shortly afterwards the track bends to the left and narrows. Turn Right onto the first trail that goes up a low rising hill. Follow the trail for 0.2km. White mountain will be on the right.

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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Pods 两个洞
2		★★★ 蓝色魔法 Blue Magic / Torniquet Scramble through caves to find the start. Set: Dave Gliddon FA: French Nike Team ACG, Mike & Axel, 2007	5.13d	Sport 30m, 8
3		崩塌的故事 The Tale of the Talus FA: Seb Grieve, 2006	5.11d	Sport 29m, 20
4		辣米粉直上 Spicy Dumpling Direct Start Open Project		SportProject
5		辣饺子 Spicy Dumpling Branches off Spicy Noodle. Set: Chris Sharma, 2009 FA: Ethan Pringle, 2010	5.14d	Sport 42m, 16
6		★★★ 辣米粉 Spicy Noodle FA: Chris Sharma, 2009	5.14b	Sport 38m, 14
7		★★ 金刚狼 The Axeman 起步同辣米粉，中间小洞休息处往右直上 FA: Neil Gresham, 2006	5.13b	Sport 38m, 16
8		★★★ 中国攀岩 China Climb Set: Logan Barber, 2006 FA: A Bond, 2008 NA: 邱紫恒, Jan 2022 NA: 王沐易, 6 Apr 2022 NA: 王梓烁, 23 May 2022 FA: 陈云兮, 19 Nov 2022	5.14a	Sport 31m, 15
9		中国攀岩直上 China Climb Direct Start		Sport
10		★★ 中国传奇 Cuento Chino / Wento Xino 起步同中国攀，2把快挂后往右切 FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009	5.14a	Sport 41m, 15
11		★★★ 完美高潮 Happy End FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009	5.13d	Sport 46m, 17
12		完美/故事直上 Happy Chino Direct Direct start to 中国传奇 Cuento Chino and 完美高潮 Happy End Open project Set: 阿邦, 2022		SportProject
The Beach 耍废区
14		小青蛇 扯蛋的左边，一条细细的水迹，浑然天成，状似出没白山岩壁的小青蛇。目前无首攀。难度估计5.14b以上 Set: Abond阿邦, 2020		SportProject
15		★ 跳蛋 Bitch Fight Sparse bolting in upper half, the new grade might not represent the true difficulty. FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005	5.13b	Sport 24m, 7
16		★★★ 扯蛋 Little Bastard FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005	5.13b	Sport 24m, 8
17		★★ 冬至 Winter Solstice 扯蛋的延长线 Set: Ethan Pringle, 2010 FA: Dawei, Dec 2016	5.14c	Sport 45m, 18
18		黑衣人 Man In Black 短而硬 FA: DaWei, Mar 2016	5.13d	Sport 25m, 8
19		★★ 遗忘的记忆 Forgotten Memory FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005	5.12a	Sport 25m, 9
20		★★★ 两面双刀 Aiding and Abetting FA: James Murphy & Paul Collis, 2004	5.11d	Sport 25m, 10
21		★★★ 法国流氓 French Gangster 无耻的法国人在难点处打了个双指洞，留下阳朔唯一的人工点。YYDS沙马找到新动作，不用人工指洞完成了这条漂亮的线路，于是名字也由American Gangster（源自电影《美国黑帮》）改为法国流氓 Set: Colton Lindeman, 2006 FA: Nike/Beal team ACG Michael, 2007	5.14b	Sport 47m, 25
22		★★ 韩国头号 Korea No.1 FA: JH & Kim, 2008	5.13b	Sport 27m, 7, 13
23		★ 虎虎生威Panda remix 和韩国一号共起步，难点处利用右边的平台和脚点爬上去难度会直降一个数字 Set: Jerry zhong FA: Jerry zhong	5.12a	Sport 17m, 7
24		★ 大太阳 Big Sun Splits all the way left at the 3rd bolt of China White. FA: Simone Liu, 2006	5.11b	Sport 17m, 8
25		★★ 大太阳直上 Big Sun Direct Set: Yangshuo Sport Climbing Association, Mar 2015	5.12a	Sport 17m, 7
26		★★★ 马到成功 Instant Success FA: Abond, 2011	5.13d	Sport 31m, 17
27		★★★ 六指琴魔 Two in the Pink, One in the Stink Breaks L out of China White then up. FA: Dave Gliddon, 2008	5.12c	Sport 20m, 9
28		★★★ 中国白 China White FA: Seb Greive, 2005	5.12b	Sport 20m, 9
29		★★★ 金汤力 Gin and Tonic / Gin & Tonic Same start as Tsing Tao Beer. FA: ACheng & Wang Er, 2007 FA: 2007	5.13b	Sport 29m, 12
30		★★★ 马提尼 Shaken Not Stirred 阳朔最长的单段 Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2011 FA: Nikolai Ng, 2011	5.13a	Sport 53m, 20
31		★★★ 青岛啤酒 Tsing Tao Beer FA: Shinsuke Kimura & Rie Kimura, 2006	5.13a	Sport 27m, 12
32		★★ 黑鬼 Gang of Four FA: Mark Garthwaite, 2005	5.12d	Sport 28m, 12
33		★★★ 白鬼 White Devil FA: Neil Gresham, 2005	5.12d	Sport 28m, 12
34		★★ 江缘客栈 Smile Forever / 永远的微笑 Maybe the hardest 8a in Yangshuo. Climb the first 2 draws of Yangshuo Hotel and then go strait up. Enjoy the mono holds and compression climbing above. The first ascensionist named the route 永远的微笑 (smiling forever), but the route was called 江缘客栈 in the guidebook of the time (which was the name of the hostel owned by the route setter). That hostel closed down in 2020. Set: Zhang Yong FA: Abond, Mar 2015	5.13b	Sport 27m, 13
35		★★★ 阳朔旅馆 Yangshuo Hotel FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2006	5.12b	Sport 33m, 17
36		★★★ 阳朔旅馆支线Yangshuo Hotel Variation 阳朔旅馆支线，从垫脚石起步直上4把快挂后接入阳朔旅馆线路 FA: 何川, 14 Dec 2022	5.12b	Sport 31m, 15
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
37		★★ 火鸟 Fire Bird FA: Rie & Shinsuke Kimura, 2006	5.11c	Sport 14m, 5
38		★★ 没空 Inna Space Outta Time Continuation of firebird. Climbs direct at the top for full grade. FA: Doug "the cunt" Robertson, 2011	5.12d	Sport 33m, 14
39		★★ 掉链子 The Missing Link FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004	5.10c	Sport 14m, 6
40		★★ 掉链子支线 The Missing Link - Variation FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004	5.12b	Sport 20m, 10
41		★★★ 喜羊羊Be Positive 难点是4进5这里的洞，不同人的难度感觉差别较大，因人而异。经过消耗战的顶链后需要很好的耐力，中间与消耗战共用4把快挂。 FA: 何川, 21 Dec 2022	5.12a	Sport 35m, 15
42		★★ 消耗战 Wall of Attrition Another long pumper. As the angle eases, the holds get smaller. FA: Paul Collis, Cheng Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004	5.11c	Sport 20m, 11
43		★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 1 FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004	5.10d	Sport 13m, 6
44		★★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 2 FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004	5.11a	Sport 30m, 14
45		★★ 滑板鞋 Skate Shoes Set: Xuan Niao & A Liang FA: A Liang, Jan 2015	5.11d	Sport 15m, 8
46		★★ 西街裸奔 West Streak FA: Grant Farquhar, 2005	5.12a	Sport 24m, 9
47		★★★ 李医生按摩 Lily Li Session FA: David Brasco, 2009	5.12b	Sport 25m, 9
48		★★★ 生日快乐Happy Birthday 与李医生按摩共用起步后向右，中间与西街裸奔交汇后在其左侧，交汇后与西街裸奔距离很近但线路和动作基本不重复。最后两把快挂难度降低，但间距较大。 FA: 何川, 21 Feb 2022	5.11c	Sport 24m, 7
49		★★ 金色年华 Golden Years FA: Zhang Yong, 2012	5.12b	Sport 24m, 9
50		★★ 幸运区域 Lucky Zone Powerful crux on pockets at the roof. FA: Soichiro Fukuda, 2007	5.12c	Sport 24m, 8
51		★★ 腊八Laba Short Set: Jerry zhong FA: Jerry zhong	5.10c	Sport 15m, 6
52		腊八延长线 Laba extension 腊八延长线，线路开放攀爬，难度预计5.13b/c Laba extension. Open project. Grade might be around 13b/c		SportProject 24m, 12
53		★★ 魔鬼棒 Devil Sticks Starts immediatly left of SD, and shares its DBB. FA: Liu Xi Nan & Chen Xie Wei, 2005	5.12b	Sport 24m, 9
54		★★ 石狗 Stone Dog FA: Paul Collis, Dingo & Lao Gan Ma, 2004	5.10d	Sport 24m, 11
55		★★ 不要汪汪 Wow Wow Mei Yao FA: Torsten Gedicke, Susann Hantscho & Elke Schmitz, 2006	5.11b	Sport 26m, 9
凤凰小巷 Phoenix Row
57		★★★ 凤凰 Days of the Phoenix Crimpy face climbing with a high crux. FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006	5.12a/b	Sport 26m, 10
58		★★ 啲嗒糖走私贩 The Tic Tac Smuggler FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006	5.12d	Sport 25m, 9
59		★★★ 岩面线路 Face Route FA: Paul Collis & James Murphy, 2004	5.11a	Sport 28m, 13
60		★★★ 圣诞快乐 Merry Christmas FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005	5.11b	Sport 25m, 11
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
61		★★ 光明节快乐 Happy Chanukah FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005	5.12b	Sport 20m, 7
62		★★ 管理混乱 Management Flaws FA: Xi Tang, 2006	5.12c	Sport 20m, 8
63		★ 西门庆 Captain Debauchery Tuff tufa climbing. FA: Solly Fernandez, 2006	5.11c	Sport 20m, 8
64		★★ 喜剧演员 The Comedians 起步在一个钟乳的左边 FA: Mike Robertson, 2006	5.10d	Sport 26m, 12
65		★★ 大刀女侠 Girl With a Machete Warning Rock: 大块的松动落石 FA: Joe Picalli, 2006	5.11d	Sport 25m, 11
66		滑溜的乳头 Slippery Nipple Steep crimpy and technical. FA: Colton Lindeman, 2005	5.13a	Sport 25m, 11
67		★ 异常 Abinormal FA: Colton Lindeman & Abi Roberts, 2006	5.11c	Sport 25m, 10
68		★★ 蓝龙 Blue Dragon FA: Luc Devantay, 2013	5.12b	Sport 32m, 14
69		★★ 两把刷子 Talented FA: Paul Collis, Bob Keaty & Ton Ton, 2008	5.10b	Sport 20m, 9
70		★★ 橘子花香 Tangerine Blossom Fragrance FA: Ton Ton, Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2008	5.10a	Sport 21m, 12
71		★ 蹑手蹑脚 The Prowl FA: Andrew Christensen, 2007	5.10c	Sport 17m, 7
72		★ 娘炮双胞胎 Drag Queen Twins Set: Zhang Yong FA: Yang YuLong	5.10b	Sport 12m, 5
73		★ 美男子 All Up In It Set: Zhang Yong FA: Yang YuLong	5.6	Sport 12m, 5

1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.720355, 110.537718

description

Two styles of climbing at this crag. Super overhung and vertical. Theres a nice cave to keep you cool yet a beautiful flat belay area to hangout. Its a nice place with routes spread across a huge grade range

approach

Area 51 is located out the WHite Mtn road toward PuYi. But instead of turning at the big tree continue straight for 1.5km on the main road then turn right at a small concrete mixer industrial plant. Go 500m and park near a pump well. The crag is uphill behind the houses to the right.

1.7. Kiddie Crag 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 24.717218, 110.524255

description

The Kiddie Crag is a small buttress located on the north side of White Mountain. A handful of routes are on offer in the easy to intermediate range and the crag can be used as a warm up venue before hitting the more physical climbs at White Mountain.

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop	Area
5.6		★	All That Heaven Allows	Sport 10m, 4		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★	Fantasia	Sport 10m, 4		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★	美男子 All Up In It	Sport 12m, 5		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
			Forgotten Boner	Sport		1.7. Kiddie Crag
			Shame Fetish	Sport		1.7. Kiddie Crag
5.8		★★	Alice in Wonderland	Sport 9m, 3		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	House of Terrasaurus	Sport 3		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
		★★	DNA	Sport 18m, 8		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
		★	American Pie	Sport 10m		1.7. Kiddie Crag
			Inflated Testes	Sport		1.7. Kiddie Crag
5.9		★	Chocolate Milk Crack	Sport 26m, 8		1.2.1. East Face
		★	Cover Boy Meets Mr Hilti	Sport 26m, 7		1.2.1. East Face
		★★	Crispy	Sport 29m, 9		1.2.1. East Face
		★★	Absent Friends	Sport 21m, 9		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★★	The Deviant Direct	Sport 62m, 3		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★	The Deviant, Original Start	Sport 22m, 6		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
			Trust Issues and Scar Tissue	Trad		1.2.4. West Face
			Flight Path	Sport 52m, 2		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
			Swoop	Sport 31m, 13		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
		★	Turbo Billy	Sport 10m		1.7. Kiddie Crag
5.10a		★	Sha Bi Abi	Sport 21m, 9		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★★	All the King's Horses	Sport 27m, 13		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Handsaw Returns	Sport 27m, 10		1.2.4. West Face
			No Name?	Sport 14m		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
		★	Test of Faith	Sport 14m, 7		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
		★★	橘子花香 Tangerine Blossom Fragrance	Sport 21m, 12		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
5.10b		★★	Straw Noise Sheep Ernie	Sport 26m, 7		1.2.1. East Face
		★★	Consolation Prize	Sport 20m, 7		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Rooster Booster	Sport 31m, 14		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Unnamed 10b	Sport 14		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Unnamed 10b #2	Sport 35m, 16		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Chicken Run	Sport 27m, 12		1.2.4. West Face
		★★	Eggstreme Eggsposure	Sport 27m, 9		1.2.4. West Face
			Hand Full of Rocks	Trad 100m, 5		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
		★★	两把刷子 Talented	Sport 20m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	娘炮双胞胎 Drag Queen Twins	Sport 12m, 5		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	Yangshuo hello	Sport 25m		1.7. Kiddie Crag
5.10c		★★	Baozi Bonanza	Sport 21m, 7		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Unnamed 10c	Sport		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Helter Incendo	Sport 27m, 9		1.2.4. West Face
		★★	Pulling Perfection	Sport 27m, 13		1.2.4. West Face
		★★	掉链子 The Missing Link	Sport 14m, 6		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	腊八Laba	Sport 15m, 6		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	蹑手蹑脚 The Prowl	Sport 17m, 7		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
5.10d		★★★	Grandfathered In	Sport 140m, 6		1.1. 驼背山 Humpback Mountain
			Pumpy Brewster	Sport 21m, 8		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★★	The Never Ending Story	Sport 40m, 2, 7		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★★★	Wonderful World	Sport 30m, 12		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★★	Final Decade	Sport 18m, 9		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Poser‘s Lonely Reunion	Sport 22m, 9		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★	Too Much Ecstasy	Sport 22m, 9		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	喜剧演员 The Comedians	Sport 26m, 12		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 1	Sport 13m, 6		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	石狗 Stone Dog	Sport 24m, 11		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	Piss and Moan	Sport 23m, 12		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
5.11a		★★★	Hanging in the Balance	Sport 22m, 8		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★★	Strike a Pose	Sport 31m, 15		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	From Finland With Love	Sport 27m, 10		1.2.4. West Face
		★★	山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 2	Sport 30m, 14		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	岩面线路 Face Route	Sport 28m, 13		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	Space Cowboy	Sport 18m, 9		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
5.11a/b		★	Golden Local Guide	Sport 4		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
5.11b			mama's backporch	Sport		1.1. 驼背山 Humpback Mountain
		★★★	Duck	Sport 24m, 11		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★★	Tail Spin	Sport 22m, 10		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★★	一路向东Way Down East	Sport 33m, 15		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	不要汪汪 Wow Wow Mei Yao	Sport 26m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	圣诞快乐 Merry Christmas	Sport 25m, 11		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	大太阳 Big Sun	Sport 17m, 8		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	The Cyclops	Sport 21m		1.7. Kiddie Crag
5.11c		★★★	Eggstatic	Sport 45m, 2, 16		1.2.1. East Face
		★★	Bad Egg	Sport 25m, 10		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★	Hustler's Roof	Sport 22m, 9		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★	The Jungle Book	Sport 17m, 7		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
			El Diablo	Sport 15m, 8		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
		★★	Fear No Evil	Sport 20m, 9		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
			Virgin Sacrifice	Sport 25m, 13		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
		★	异常 Abinormal	Sport 25m, 10		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	消耗战 Wall of Attrition	Sport 20m, 11		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	火鸟 Fire Bird	Sport 14m, 5		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	生日快乐Happy Birthday	Sport 24m, 7		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	西门庆 Captain Debauchery	Sport 20m, 8		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	Restricted Access	Sport 37m, 17		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
		★★	Terrestrial	Sport 20m, 7		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
23		★★	Corner	Sport 25m		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
5.11d		★★	Da Moguai	Sport 40m, 2		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★★	Chuck if Ya want to	Sport 22m, 9		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	Let Me See Your War Face!	Sport 28m, 10		1.2.4. West Face
		★★★	两面双刀 Aiding and Abetting	Sport 25m, 10		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	大刀女侠 Girl With a Machete	Sport 25m, 11		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
			崩塌的故事 The Tale of the Talus	Sport 29m, 20		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	滑板鞋 Skate Shoes	Sport 15m, 8		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	Abduction	Sport 30m, 13		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
5.12a			Old School	Sport 15m, 5		1.1. 驼背山 Humpback Mountain
		★★	New Decade	Sport 22m, 10		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★★	喜羊羊Be Positive	Sport 35m, 15		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	大太阳直上 Big Sun Direct	Sport 17m, 7		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	虎虎生威Panda remix	Sport 17m, 7		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	西街裸奔 West Streak	Sport 24m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	遗忘的记忆 Forgotten Memory	Sport 25m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	She's an Alien!	Sport 27m, 12		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
5.12a/b		★★★	凤凰 Days of the Phoenix	Sport 26m, 10		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
5.12b		★★	Mr Greenwood	Sport 21m, 7		1.2.2. Fantasy Area
		★	The Wiggle	Sport 22m, 10		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★★	Bird Man Goes Free	Sport 110m, 4		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
		★	CHina Business	Sport 4		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
			Zhongguo Zhengyi (China Busines)	Sport 110m, 4, 35		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
		★★★	Fear No Evil Extension	Sport 35m, 15		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
			The Black Death	Sport 11m, 6		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
		★★★	中国白 China White	Sport 20m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	光明节快乐 Happy Chanukah	Sport 20m, 7		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	掉链子支线 The Missing Link - Variation	Sport 20m, 10		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	李医生按摩 Lily Li Session	Sport 25m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	蓝龙 Blue Dragon	Sport 32m, 14		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	金色年华 Golden Years	Sport 24m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	阳朔旅馆 Yangshuo Hotel	Sport 33m, 17		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	阳朔旅馆支线Yangshuo Hotel Variation	Sport 31m, 15		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	魔鬼棒 Devil Sticks	Sport 24m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
5.12c			Too Many	Sport 13m, 7		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
		★★★	六指琴魔 Two in the Pink, One in the Stink	Sport 20m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	幸运区域 Lucky Zone	Sport 24m, 8		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	管理混乱 Management Flaws	Sport 20m, 8		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	No One Should Hear You Send	Sport 32m, 14		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
5.12d		★★	Round Table Conference	Sport 34m, 17		1.2.1. East Face
		★★	The Way to Helldurado	Sport 22m, 11		1.2.3. The Northeast Face
		★★	啲嗒糖走私贩 The Tic Tac Smuggler	Sport 25m, 9		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	没空 Inna Space Outta Time	Sport 33m, 14		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	白鬼 White Devil	Sport 28m, 12		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	黑鬼 Gang of Four	Sport 28m, 12		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	Space Invaders	Sport 28m		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
5.13a			Czech Line	Sport 150m, 4, 22		1.3. 禽人 Bird Man
		★★★	Dragon Breath	Sport 19m, 9		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
			滑溜的乳头 Slippery Nipple	Sport 25m, 11		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	青岛啤酒 Tsing Tao Beer	Sport 27m, 12		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	马提尼 Shaken Not Stirred	Sport 53m, 20		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
5.13b		★★★	煮面条	SportProject 17m, 7		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
		★★★	扯蛋 Little Bastard	Sport 24m, 8		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	江缘客栈 Smile Forever	Sport 27m, 13		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	跳蛋 Bitch Fight	Sport 24m, 7		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	金刚狼 The Axeman	Sport 38m, 16		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	金汤力 Gin and Tonic	Sport 29m, 12		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★	韩国头号 Korea No.1	Sport 27m, 7, 13		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★	No Weak Shit	Sport 30m, 13		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
		★★★	Warcraft	Sport 30m, 11		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
5.13d		★★★	完美高潮 Happy End	Sport 46m, 17		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	蓝色魔法 Blue Magic / Torniquet	Sport 30m, 8		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	马到成功 Instant Success	Sport 31m, 17		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
			黑衣人 Man In Black	Sport 25m, 8		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
5.14a		★★	中国传奇 Cuento Chino	Sport 41m, 15		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	中国攀岩 China Climb	Sport 31m, 15		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	Black Belt	Sport 32m, 14		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
5.14b		★★★	法国流氓 French Gangster	Sport 47m, 25		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
		★★★	辣米粉 Spicy Noodle	Sport 38m, 14		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
5.14c		★★	冬至 Winter Solstice	Sport 45m, 18		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
5.14d			辣饺子 Spicy Dumpling	Sport 42m, 16		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
?			El Diablo Extension	SportProject 35m, 14		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
			Open Project 1	SportProject 30m, 14		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
			Open Project 2	SportProject 37m, 15		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
			Open Project 3	SportProject 19m, 8		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
			Open Project 3 Extension	SportProject 35m, 15		1.4. 起死回生墙 Wall of the Damned
			中国攀岩直上 China Climb Direct Start	Sport		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
			完美/故事直上 Happy Chino Direct	SportProject		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
			小青蛇	SportProject		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
			腊八延长线 Laba extension	SportProject 24m, 12		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
			辣米粉直上 Spicy Dumpling Direct Start	SportProject		1.5. 白山 White Mountain
			Extra Terrestrial	SportProject 32m, 12		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
			Open Project 2	SportProject 30m, 13		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
			Open Project 3	SportProject 17m, 8		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
			Open Project 4	SportProject 32m, 13		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51
			Open Project One	SportProject 17m, 9		1.6. 高龙洞 Area 51