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Description

Lei Pi Shan is a huge overhanging cliff located just south from the town of Gao Tian. The climbing is typically overhanging and strenuous. With the exception of a just a few climbs the routes are graded 5.11–5.14a.

Access issues

No Access Issues so far

Approach

Lei Pi shan is located 40 metres from the road making access a breeze. From the center of Gaotian town, continue travelling on the G321 road away from Yangshuo towards Lipu for another 1.6km. Lei Pi Shan is on the right side of the road. You will not miss it.

Ethic inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Climbing in China is similar to Korea, whereas the most popular crags can get crowded during the busy seasons. its not uncommon to find ropes hanging on many routes that at the moment are not being used. Or for for certain areas to "feel" overused with lots of people hanging around, with music, and lots of good vibes. Please wear a smile, be patient, make conversation and be polite. If there are any safety issues, speak up...the chinese, and hopefully all climbers, welcome professional instruction.

New routing is acceptable. Please please do not squeeze routes in-between others, nor hap-hazardly add routes. The overall climbing experience of the chinese community is at a novice level. It is very important to develop SAFE routes that are thoroughly cleaned. IF you have a question about adding an additional bolt...DO IT!! Also..It would be wise to find a local guru before developing and ask for some local tips. Thank You.

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: David Brasco, 2009

FA: S Fukuda, 2007

FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2007

This route is located directly right of Muscle Damage.

FA: Chen Gui Wen, 2008

This route is located directly left of Jeja. A tricky start eases into steep juggy territory

Set: Gan Yi Xing, 2005

FA: Blaz Germek & Liu Tao, 2005

FA: Blaz Germek & Liu Tao, 2005

FA: Abin from Taiwan & Chen Gui Wen, 2008

Set: Blaz Germek & Liu Tao, 2005

boulder start to Pickpocket. best if combined with DaBaoYu.

FA: Duncan Brown, 2009

Appropriately named climb.

Set: Blaz Germek & Liu Tao, 2005

Set: andrew

FA: jonathon seigrist, 2009

Great climbing out a steep, pocketed wall. Just left of Waiting For Sophie and One Love.

Extension of "The Power of One"

FA: A Niu, Aug 2011

A one move wonder of a route. Moderate (6b-ish) climbing to a hard boulder problem and some 7a+ moves above the last bolt.

The last clip is a bit scary. Most people stop at the belay of One Love. A tough line for the grade.

FA: Xi Tang, 2007

The extension of Waiting For Sophy

Set: 谢卫成, Nov 2012

FA: 王清华, May 2015

Set: 谢卫成

FA: 谢卫成, Nov 2012

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

Set: Duncan Brown

FA: Logan Barber, Dec 2012

A Few Crimps has broken off at the crux, 98% of people use the tufa down and right of the old crux. the route has been downgraded because it is very difficult to go directly over the old crux. accepted locally as 12d.

FA: Logan Barber, 2006

Extension of Paper Cut

FA: Mathieu Bouyoud, 2009

FA: Logan Barber, Nov 2012

Set: logan barber

FA: Qu Haibin, Mar 2014

This is the pitch to the first anchors. The extended Thunder goes at 8b+, and is a rope stretching 36m or so.

Very thin, technical, and sustained. 7b+ in the newest guidebook.

extension to Single life

FA: Scott Millton, 2008

Excellent Quality route and probably one of the best at the grade in Yangshuo, From crimp, jugs to some tufa wrestling.

FA: Joe Picalli, 2006

Extension of Singularity, bolt by Chris Sharma

Set: Chris Sharma, 2009

FA: Wang Qinghua, Aug 2012

From Singularity's 4th bolt head right and follow seam and pockets to tufa

FFA: Seb Grieve, 2007

FA: Mike Robertson, 2006

FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009

Set: ed stockdale & jake

FA: ABond, Aug 2011

so grown over not worth your time to look for it. shit hardware too..

so grown over not worth your time to look for it. shit hardware too..

FA: 2007

so grown over not worth your time to look for it. shit hardware too..

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Activity

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