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Summary

Low mtn is available for free climbing but now has a viaferrata built that goes around the mountian and is owned by a local company.

Description

Low Mountain incorporates The main Southeast Face, Western Arête, a few extra muitpitches, and a new area on the riverside of the crag. Some single pitch climbs are polished and there is loose rock on the multi pitch routes, so helmets are good idea. The left half of the south face is sheltered in the rain and all routes between “Touching the Cloth” and The Pig Emperor” stay dry even in torrential rain.

Access issues inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Be aware: about 60% of the climbing occurs in a "scenic tourist park". As long as you travel by motorbike or bicycle the 100rmb entrance fee is not required. You will learn about this in the first few days in Yangshuo. It doesn't really concern climbers, but is pertinent info...especially when considering a taxi during inclement weather.

All of the land belongs to the Chinese government and has been appropriated to respective farming villages. Each crag and it's access is then controlled by either the village collectively or a specific person, so technically we as climbers are trespassing 95% of the time in China. However, most villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. On the contrary, certain crags have historically had issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Approach

Ethic inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Climbing in China is similar to Korea, whereas the most popular crags can get crowded during the busy seasons. its not uncommon to find ropes hanging on many routes that at the moment are not being used. Or for for certain areas to "feel" overused with lots of people hanging around, with music, and lots of good vibes. Please wear a smile, be patient, make conversation and be polite. If there are any safety issues, speak up...the chinese, and hopefully all climbers, welcome professional instruction.

New routing is acceptable. Please please do not squeeze routes in-between others, nor hap-hazardly add routes. The overall climbing experience of the chinese community is at a novice level. It is very important to develop SAFE routes that are thoroughly cleaned. IF you have a question about adding an additional bolt...DO IT!! Also..It would be wise to find a local guru before developing and ask for some local tips. Thank You.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbed on trad a long long time ago. exact location unknown. Never repeated. In most guesses, this route climbed up the left side of the Southface area to the cave system at half height.

FA: Dave Gliddon & Erik, 2005

on the left side of main wall. now has anchor half way up. belay is amidst the forest.

FA: CMDI Ozark, 2009

FA: cmdi

In the corner very near the start of a zipline and a man-made cave entrance.

Set: Andrew

the face to the right of the corner and man-made entrance.

FA: James Murphy, Karen Potts & Roland, 2004

FA: James Murphy, Karen Potts & Roland, 2004

FA: Paul Collis & Lao Gan Ma, 2004

FA: Paul Collis & Lao Gan Ma, 2004

FA: Oliver Balmer, Echo Woo & Shunbin, 2004

FA: James Murphy, Karen Potts & Roland, 2004

FA: zhangyong

FA: Olivier Balma & Polina Brodowski, Nov 2014

FA: Paul Collis, James Bond & James Murphy, 2004

FA: Dave Gliddon & Tyson, 2005

FA: Paul Collis, Yang Ai Hu & Lily Lao Gan Ma Grigri, 2004

This has become P1 of Monkey King.

FA: GuGu, 2009

THIS ROUTE DOESN'T EXIST

FA: Paul Collis & Liu Tao, 2004

1 5.10a 20m
2 5.9 12m
3 5.10a 20m
4 5.10b 25m
5 5.8 15m

The 1st pitch USED TO start by climbing a dead tree at the base of the climb. The tree has been removed and replaced by the Via-ferrata entrance. (DO NOT CLIMB THE VIA FERRATA W/O PERMISSION). Must climb FOrgotten Name to access the upper pitches of MOnkey King. P2-P5 continue up the wall. The route and anchors stop approximatley 50m before the top of the tower.

FA: Paul Collis, Liu Tao, Sylvain Langris & Oliver Balmer, 2004

THIS ROUTE DOESN'T EXIST

FA: Paul Collis & Liu Tao, 2004

GONE...Doesnt Exist

FA: The Israelis, 2004

GONE...Doesn't Exist

From the ViaFerrata access, go right 30m and find a small plaque. these 2 routes start here.

FA: Kolon Alpine School, Nov 2015

From the ViaFerrata access, go right 30m and find a small plaque. these 2 routes start here.

FA: Kolon Alpine School, Nov 2015

FA: Sylvain Langris & Olivier Balmer, 2004

张勇在元宵节开辟了某条5.11a的延长线,未FA

Set: 张勇, 26 Feb

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Activity

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