思龙山 Riverside

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 739
  • Aka: 8.1
  • Aka: 狮龙山



Access issues inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Be aware: about 60% of the climbing occurs in a "scenic tourist park". As long as you travel by motorbike or bicycle the 100rmb entrance fee is not required. You will learn about this in the first few days in Yangshuo. It doesn't really concern climbers, but is pertinent info...especially when considering a taxi during inclement weather.

All of the land belongs to the Chinese government and has been appropriated to respective farming villages. Each crag and it's access is then controlled by either the village collectively or a specific person, so technically we as climbers are trespassing 95% of the time in China. However, most villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. On the contrary, certain crags have historically had issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.


  • 百度地图导航 导航到“狮龙鼎锅饭”,将到达时岩壁就在右手边;岩壁往前走100-200米左右有小店和公共厕所。


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Grade Route

5.12d in the old topo.

Set: Duncan Brown, 2011

FA: Da Wei, Aug 2013

FFA: Said Belhaj, 2011

FA: Tyson wallace, 2011

FA: Duncan brown, 2011

FA: Zhang Yong, 2014

FA: Nikolai Ng, 2011

Shares start with Steel. Branches off right at the 5th bolt

FA: Duncan Brown, 2011

FA: Simon Dilks, 2005

Set: andrew

FA: Connor

FA: Dave Gliddon, 2005

Fun steep cranking, with big moves between big jugs.

extension to Dragonfly. finishes on Fat Monkey

Before the roof of Flaming hornets, breaks left.

FA: Dave Gliddon, 2007

Flaming Hornets extension

Set: Dave Gliddon

FA: Alan Moore, 2007

Flaming Hornets right extension

FA: Dave Gliddon, 2007

Shares the start with FH (about 5m right of Dragonfly), before moving right through overhangs on large jugs to a 2 Bolt Belay. Very powerful.

FA: Roman Stuefer & Klaus Kofler, 2008

Do you fear the difficulty?

Absolute all-time classic pumper. Rest in Peace Dave , 28/11/2017

FFA: Dave Gliddon, 2006

FA: Dave Gliddon, Aug 2014

FA: Paul Collis & Dave Gliddon, 2011

FA: Paul Collis & Dave Gliddon, 2011


FFA: JJ Wochao

FA: Paul Collis & Dave Gliddon, 2011

FA: andrew

Set: Andrew, 2021

Set: Andrew

Set: Andrew

FA: ola

Set: Andrew

FA: 阿甘

Thoughtfull face climbing.

FA: A Dong & Andrew Hedesh, 2009

Extension to 'Moon', followed by a short boulder problem.

FA: 萧玉杰9c+, 23 Nov 2020

Left of the two routes near cave 100m right of other routes.

Right of the two routes. Currently sports bail biners at a couple of places. Very loose in places. I accidentally dislodged a toaster sized block before utilising one of the bail biners According to the guide 5.8 but I'm pretty sure it's a couple of grades harder at least.

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