Access issues inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Be aware: about 60% of the climbing occurs in a "scenic tourist park". As long as you travel by motorbike or bicycle the 100rmb entrance fee is not required. You will learn about this in the first few days in Yangshuo. It doesn't really concern climbers, but is pertinent info...especially when considering a taxi during inclement weather.

All of the land belongs to the Chinese government and has been appropriated to respective farming villages. Each crag and it's access is then controlled by either the village collectively or a specific person, so technically we as climbers are trespassing 95% of the time in China. However, most villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. On the contrary, certain crags have historically had issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Ethic inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Climbing in China is similar to Korea, whereas the most popular crags can get crowded during the busy seasons. its not uncommon to find ropes hanging on many routes that at the moment are not being used. Or for for certain areas to "feel" overused with lots of people hanging around, with music, and lots of good vibes. Please wear a smile, be patient, make conversation and be polite. If there are any safety issues, speak up...the chinese, and hopefully all climbers, welcome professional instruction.

New routing is acceptable. Please please do not squeeze routes in-between others, nor hap-hazardly add routes. The overall climbing experience of the chinese community is at a novice level. It is very important to develop SAFE routes that are thoroughly cleaned. IF you have a question about adding an additional bolt...DO IT!! Also..It would be wise to find a local guru before developing and ask for some local tips. Thank You.


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Grade Route

split left off second bolt of blood into a balancy and crumbly dihedral, fingery moves up ...interesting rock.

FA: Andrew Hedesh, May 2012

Left line on the pillar between the two caves with tables. The bulging crack of the second pitch is easily visible above the anchor.

1 5.11c 16m
2 5.11c 9m

From the back of the cave to lower off midway to the front.

Set: 2004

Right wall of the right cave, through the tufa/stalactites and then up to join Big Plane.

Set: 2004

There is also one anchor before the overhang.

FA: Ken McMahon & Karen MacMahon, 1998

FA: Xi Tang & Paul Collis, 2003

Technical climbing to the right of DPG.

1 5.10c 25m
2 5.10b 20m

1st Pitch: 5.10c, 10 bolts 2nd Pitch: 5.10b

From belay of Xin Jiang Black head up and right instead of up and left.

FA: Josh Latila & Andrew Hedesh, 2010

Cruxy start geting onto the wall, then traversing right into the corner. Technical climbing on good rock.

FA: Ken & Karen McMahon, 1998

Bottom half is run out. A few wires might help.

FA: Qiu Jiang, 2003


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