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Description

White Mountain is an impressive crag dominated by harder grade climbs. The massive wall is overhung and the climbing is both physical and sustained. The crag is South facing and is in the sun all day, however during summer some areas are in shade. The crag stays mostly dry during rain. However, if it is raining heavily some parts of the rock will become slick. Choose your climbs carefully!

Access issues inherited from 阳朔 Yangshuo

Be aware: about 60% of the climbing occurs in a "scenic tourist park". As long as you travel by motorbike or bicycle the 100rmb entrance fee is not required. You will learn about this in the first few days in Yangshuo. It doesn't really concern climbers, but is pertinent info...especially when considering a taxi during inclement weather.

All of the land belongs to the Chinese government and has been appropriated to respective farming villages. Each crag and it's access is then controlled by either the village collectively or a specific person, so technically we as climbers are trespassing 95% of the time in China. However, most villagers welcome climbing and do not present any problems. On the contrary, certain crags have historically had issues. If there is signage at any crag asking for small donations (1-5rmb for vehicle parking), please be willing to pay. This money goes directly to the local villager whose land we are using and supports the local associations' agreement with the villagers. The money is minimal and the result has been very beneficial to resolving any issues. Thank You.

Approach

  • 百度地图导航
  • 怎么去白山

  • From the Deng Long Shan Village veer right onto a smaller road and follow it to where a "Y" intersection with a narrow blue sign is reached. Turn left and follow this into Zhou Sang Village. Where the concrete ends, a dirt track turns right over a small creek and eventually pass Wall of the Damned on your left then cross over a larger second creek. Go Straight at a small intersection, then shortly afterwards the track bends to the left and narrows. Turn Right onto the first trail that goes up a low rising hill. Follow the trail for 0.2km. White mountain will be on the right.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Scramble through caves to find the start.

Set: Dave Gliddon

FA: French Nike Team ACG, Mike & Axel, 2007

FA: Seb Grieve, 2006

Branches off Spicy Noodle.

Set: Chris Sharma, 2009

FA: Ethan Pringle, 2010

FA: Chris Sharma, 2009

起步同辣米粉,中间小洞休息处往右直上

FA: Neil Gresham, 2006

Set: Logan Barber, 2006

FA: A Bon, 2008

起步同中国攀,2把快挂后往右切

FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009

FA: Oscar Gimenez, 2009

扯蛋的左边,一条细细的水迹,浑然天成,状似出没白山岩壁的小青蛇。目前无首攀。难度估计5.14b以上

Set: Abond阿邦, 2020

Sparse bolting in upper half, the new grade might not represent the true difficulty.

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

扯蛋的延长线

Set: Ethan Pringle, 2010

FA: Dawei, Dec 2016

短而硬

FA: DaWei, Mar 2016

FA: Gerome Pouvreau & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

FA: James Murphy & Paul Collis, 2004

无耻的法国人在难点处打了个双指洞,留下阳朔唯一的人工点。YYDS沙马找到新动作,不用人工指洞完成了这条漂亮的线路,于是名字也由American Gangster(源自电影《美国黑帮》)改为法国流氓

Set: Colton Lindeman, 2006

FA: Nike/Beal team ACG Michael, 2007

FA: JH & Kim, 2008

Splits all the way left at the 3rd bolt of China White.

FA: Simone Liu, 2006

Set: Yangshuo Sport Climbing Association, Mar 2015

FA: Abond, 2011

Breaks L out of China White then up.

FA: Dave Gliddon, 2008

FA: Seb Greive, 2005

Same start as Tsing Tao Beer.

FA: ACheng & Wang Er, 2007

FA: 2007

Set: Andrew Hedesh, Nov 2011

FA: Nikolai Ng, Dec 2011

FA: Shinsuke Kimura & Rie Kimura, 2006

FA: Mark Garthwaite, 2005

FA: Neil Gresham, 2005

Set: Zhang Yong

FA: Abond, Mar 2015

FA: Shinsuke Kimura, 2006

FA: Rie & Shinsuke Kimura, 2006

Continuation of firebird. Climbs direct at the top for full grade.

FA: Doug "the cunt" Robertson, Dec 2011

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

Another long pumper. As the angle eases, the holds get smaller.

FA: Paul Collis, Cheng Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

FA: Paul Collis, Chen Xie Wei & Liu Tao, 2004

Set: Xuan Niao & A Liang

FA: A Liang, Jan 2015

FA: Grant Farquhar, 2005

FA: David Brasco, 2009

FA: Zhang Yong, Dec 2012

Powerful crux on pockets at the roof.

FA: Soichiro Fukuda, 2007

Starts immediatly left of SD, and shares its DBB.

FA: Liu Xi Nan & Chen Xie Wei, 2005

FA: Paul Collis, Dingo & Lao Gan Ma, 2004

FA: Torsten Gedicke, Susann Hantscho & Elke Schmitz, 2006

Crimpy face climbing with a high crux.

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2006

FA: Paul Collis & James Murphy, 2004

FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005

FA: Zac & Katia Pisetzky, 2005

FA: Xi Tang, 2006

Tuff tufa climbing.

FA: Solly Fernandez, 2006

起步在一个钟乳的左边

FA: Mike Robertson, 2006

FA: Joe Picalli, 2006

Steep crimpy and technical.

FA: Colton Lindeman, 2005

FA: Colton Lindeman & Abi Roberts, 2006

FA: Luc Devantay, Nov 2013

FA: Paul Collis, Bob Keaty & Ton Ton, 2008

FA: Ton Ton, Paul Collis & Bob Keaty, 2008

FA: Andrew Christensen, 2007

Set: Zhang Yong

FA: Yang YuLong

Set: Zhang Yong

FA: Yang YuLong

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