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Access: 大部分岩场暂时关闭 Most crags are closed

据石鼓当地岩友

Aaron Yu : 除了新岩场云塔山,其他的都被政府关闭了,开放时间目前不知道。

wenpei he 小文 : 部分岩友不愿签免责协议,这次连续吵了三天还报了很多次警,然后镇长所长都下来了,所以关闭了。在解决有的岩友不签署免责这个问题之前应该不会开放

Due to some climbers refused to sign waiver, crags are closed temporarily.

See warning details and discuss

Created 6 weeks ago

Seasonality

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Approach

It is no longer possible to reach the crag from where it is sign posted on the road. Instead you should follow the signposted track towards the Diamond Wall. Cross the river over the new steel bridge and turn right following the river. Just as the path enters the woods there is a waterfall with some paintings of nature spirits. Follow the obvious trail until you see a bamboo gate and the perimeter fence of a property. Turn left and go around the edge of the fence. The path becomes clearer and there are some ropes which lead the way up the hill to the crag.

Ethic inherited from 石鼓 Shigu

为了获得当地村民和政府对攀岩的长期支持,请与岩壁的付费承包方石鼓攀岩基地签署一份免费的免责协议。

In order to gain support from local villages, please sign a waiver (no fee) with the Shigu Climbing Base, which pays annual fees to local villages for the crags.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 5.7 15m
2 5.10a 25m
3 5.10c 20m
4 5.10c 20m

第一个 anchor 后三米左右有一个更舒服的 anchor。P2 的 anchor 不是特别舒服,推荐P2+P3连爬,有特别好的平台打保护。

There's a better placed anchor for P1 few bolts after first anchor. Linkup P2 and P3 if you want to belay comfortably

Set by 邱江

1 5.11c 30m
2 5.11c 15m

There's an anchor at 30m. The climbing is excellent to there but the top is loose and dirty. Better to stop at 30m, 14 bolts + anchor.

70m绳子不够,差4米左右,注意绳尾结!

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