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TNT Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 9

Seasonality

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Description

Limestone face and steep tufa climbing. Great lines ranging between 6a and 7c+, with a number of good climbs around 7a, a mixture of face climbing and fun roof climbing. Belayers please be aware of not standing under your climber at this crag, we’ve tried to clear the loose stuff, but not worth taking chances.

Approach

Xiaomoyu climbing area 小墨雨 To get to the epicentre of Kunming rock climbing you want to head to the Xiaomoyu village, which can take anywhere between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours. To get there, take the C61 bus from Huang Tu Po黄土破 or Hei Lin Pu 黑林铺 ( map 1), this is the bus that goes past the Bamboo Temple 筇竹寺 (check your Lonely Planet). Most bus drivers will try to convince you to climb off at the temple, not knowing why you would want to go beyond. Just say “Shee-yow-moy-you” and make hand signals for climbing, works everytime. After the Bamboo Temple you stay on the bus for about another 10 minutes, just after you go under the huge superhighway it is time to leave the bus. There is a dirt road on the right about 50m after the highway, take this road on foot and walk to the village, about 2km. Follow the road down to the village and at the first “intersection” in the town decide where you want to climb.For the TNT Wall, follow the directions as for Xiao Mo Yu and at the ‘intersection’ take the first right after the smelly trash house, this is also the first option right as you enter the village. Follow this road through the houses, into the fields, stick with it through the fields, don’t turn off at any junctions. At the end of the road (there’ll be old broken buildings on your left) turn right and right again (through the vegetable patch), heading back in your original direction to another set of derelict buildings, these should be obvious. Walk past these buildings and then there will be a small field of some sort of crop, at the back right corner of this field is a path heading up into the forest, follow it all the way up and keep in the direction of the rocky outcrop at the top, the path branches a few times but if you keep in mind where the crag at the top of the hill is it should take you up there, a steep 30 min walk (maybe longer if you’re not sure of the path). About 2/3’s of the way up you’ll reach a rocky clearing and you’ll see the wall up to your right, after about 100m the path turns right and drops down before heading to the crag, turning left and uphill at the base of a large cypress, and then right following a rocky outcrop (you might need to use your hands at this point).

Where to stay

Kunming city hotels and guest houses

Ethic inherited from Mo Yu 墨雨

请自驾前往的岩友停车时不要阻碍交通,尊重当地居民的习俗和习惯,不要破坏农作物,谨慎用火,出于环保和保护岩壁的目的,请勿在岩壁下方烧火取暖或者烧烤,同时请勿使用油性笔在岩壁上题字或者留名。

小墨雨洞岩壁右侧已经有搭建好的旱厕供攀岩爱好者们使用,请文明如厕,手纸不要乱丢。

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Corlie Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Ryan Butler

FFA: Tom Wright

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

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