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Wind Tunnel

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 8

Seasonality

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D

Description

The climbing area near Damoyu is contains 1 crag – The Wind Tunnel, aka “Windy” and two amazing features that provide some interesting bouldering. The bouldering occurs on two sections of steep rock, about 50m long and up to 8m high (though most problems don’t go nearly that high). Great bases mean you can really throw yourself at the problems, with anything from steep jug hauling to crimpy, technical face climbs and even some boulder problems on the tufas. The sport climbing is a different style to most of the surrounding climbing, it is dominated by technical face climbing, though there are 1 or 2 nice juggy overhangs to pull. I think the highlight of this crag is the “R-complex”, a tough climb with an awesome dyno in the middle.

Approach

We say Da Mo Yu, as this is the nearest village, but the climbing (Wind Tunnel and related bouldering) is actually a little way from the village itself. To get there, take the same bus as for Xiao Mo Yu (bus C61), but you don’t get off at the drop off point for Xiao Mo Yu, stay on the bus for maybe another 1 or 2 km. After the Xiao Mo Yu drop off, the road bends left and then right, and goes down a long hill. Climb off at the bottom of the hill, as the road levels off. As usual, the bus driver will be confused as to why a foreigner would be climbing out here, just stand up, shout, take off your clothes, whatever is needed to get him to stop. Then, once you have put your clothes back on, cross the road and head back up the hill for a short distance, to the first road on the right hand side, this is a dusty dirt road accessing a nearby quarry (i.e.: many trucks). Follow this road for about 1km (less?), going under the new superhighway and head up a short dirty hill. At this point you should see the crag up and left, above a small forested area. The topos section should provide a clear picture of the crag and bouldering areas. As you near the top of the dirty hill, you’ll see a small road on your left, turn in here. There are a couple of paths heading up through the forest to the crag/bouldering, maybe a little overgrown, but it’s a short walk, so shouldn’t be a problem accessing the climbing.

Where to stay

Kunming city guesthouses or hotels

Ethic inherited from Mo Yu 墨雨

请自驾前往的岩友停车时不要阻碍交通,尊重当地居民的习俗和习惯,不要破坏农作物,谨慎用火,出于环保和保护岩壁的目的,请勿在岩壁下方烧火取暖或者烧烤,同时请勿使用油性笔在岩壁上题字或者留名。

小墨雨洞岩壁右侧已经有搭建好的旱厕供攀岩爱好者们使用,请文明如厕,手纸不要乱丢。

Routes

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Grade Route

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Dave Hoven

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

FFA: Peter Mortimer

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