临安狮头岩 Lion's Head Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head 204 routes in Crag

11 15 14 12 10 7 6 13 5 4 3 2 8 1 9

1 Crazy Corners 2 Joe's Valley 3 The Landing Zone 4 The Prow 5 Mika's Ledge 6 Midlands 7 Highlands 8 The People's Wall 9 The Lookout 10 Lower 40 11 The Come-along Crag 12 Mammut's Hump 13 Big Rig 14 Trad 15 Bouldering

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.372283, 119.642119

summary

Situated in a beautiful bamboo forest, high up in the mountains, with some spectacular views and excellent quality rock.

description

An impressive looking crag deep in the mountainous bamboo forests of Lin'an.

For more information please check out the blog of Joe Langwald, one of the developers behind this beautiful crag. Be sure to use google chrome so you can translate!

http://www.rock-lizard.org/bbs/thread-12964-1-1.html

Also, check out Climb China - an absolute must have guide book if you are thinking of coming to China to climb. You can find it here - http://www.climbchina.net/

access issues

• OSM已更新，新旧两条上山路都标记了。主流的走法是：过桥后马上从小路上山，岔路靠左斜切到新修栈道。 如果开车，可以停到栈道起点路边，会近不少。
• 停车场百度地图定位
• 2013-14 电子路书 供参考。注意：有些信息不准确，包括难度和Midlands和White China的挂片数，请以这里的更新过的信息为准。

approach

For those who do not speak any Chinese, getting to this crag may be quite troublesome, however not impossible. First of all, if you are coming from Hangzhou then you need to take a bus from the Hangzhou West Bus Station to Gao Hong (高虹) which should only cost 15 RMB and take about 2 hours.

From Gao Hong you can take a mini bus for around 60 RMB total (seats 7-9 people) and get dropped off directly at the foot of the mountain. You can arrange to meet up with the mini bus driver beforehand and she can meet you when you hop off the bus. Her number is +86 138 6800 8149.

The village at the foot of the mountain is Longshan or Longshancun.

If you are coming straight from Shanghai, a mini van (10 seats) rented for the weekend, with driver, costs around 2000RMB.

Get out from the village through the south entrance, cross the bridge and look for the path starting up to your right.

A steep approach in parts so be careful. The hike in takes about 30 minutes and is marked with stickers on bamboo trees. The path is well trodden so you can't really lose your way. Be sure not to damage any bamboo trees as they are part of a bamboo forest farm.

You may wish to bring a helmet. Although this is a sport crag there are several multi-pitch lines and still a lot of loose rock high up which is prone to becoming air-borne.

where to stay

There are several guesthouses in the main village. Most are extremely modern and well equipped with wifi, hot showers, air conditioning and television. A night here will cost around 150-180 RMB per room (can be shared by two). In some places the meal is included, while in others you will pay 10 yuan for breakfast and 40 for dinner.

Call +86 159 6886 7008 to book a room.

Another option is +86 138 6802 4301 (Luo laoban).

Be sure to prepare yourself with all your own necessities. Inside Luo Laoban's hotel there is a small shop selling water, beer, oreos, and toiletries.

history

This is a great example of some of the rapid crag development happening here in China. The area is only a few years old and still does have a lot of potential for more. Especially hard, multi pitch lines!

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide

1.1. Crazy Corners 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.370709, 119.640035

description

High wall with a bunch of long easy slabby routes on the right, and harder shorter overhanging climbs on the left. Beautiful view of the valley from up there. Good spot for beginners.

approach

Far left of Lion's Head. Follow the trail past Mika's Ledge and then Prow until you come to Crazy Corners.

1.2. Joe's Valley 25 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.370963, 119.640112

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Mojito / 莫吉托 A meter from the top are two hangars. For those wanting to top rope this route use these. For leading and cleaning continue up to the ledge where there is a ring anchor set. Good spot to practice repeling. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 1 Nov 2022 FA: Yelena González, 7 Nov 2022	5.9	Sport 20m, 9
2		"Put Down Your Phone" / 放下手机 A great route to introduce brand new climbers to climbing outdoors. Very easy start to this route to help build up confidence and encourage them to keep on going. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2022 FA: Wenting, 2023	5.7	Sport 13m, 5
3		小蜜蜂 / Little Bee 夹角左侧 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 7 Nov 2022 FA: 魏勇, 26 Nov 2022	5.8	Sport 21m, 8
4		★ Pip Pip 夹角右侧 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021	5.10b	Sport 12m, 4
5		★ Beer Budget Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021	5.10a	Sport 18m, 8
6		★★ Viva le Sand P1 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021	5.10c	Sport 33m, 14
7		★★ Viva le Sand Climb both pitches together all the way to the top. Make sure when lowered to stop at the ledge where first pitch anchors are located. Safety yourself, pull the rope, thread the rings and lower to ground from here. OR climb as a proper multi pitch route. Good ledge at first set of anchors to belay from. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021	5.10c	Sport 53m, 2, 23
8		★★ Hey Princess P1 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021	5.9	Sport 15m, 5
9		★★ Hey Princess Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Apr 2021 FA: 汤泯, 30 Apr 2021	5.10b	Sport 50m, 2, 21
Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
10		★★ Bits and Bobs P1 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021	5.10b	Sport 15m, 8
11		★★ Bits and Bobs Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021	5.10c	Sport 33m, 2, 19
12		★★ Tiramisu / 提拉米苏 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), May 2021 FA: Ale, Jun 2021	5.10b	Sport 25m, 11
13		Kick Out the Jam P1 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021 FA: Rob, Nov 2021	5.10b	Sport 21m, 9
14		★★ Kick Out the Jam Don't climb too far past the last bolt before turning around, looking behind you, up and to the left for an anchor set. You can stop here or keep on climbing to the top, which I recommend doing. The lower anchor set is there for people wanting to top rope the bottom half of this route. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021 FA: Rob, Nov 2021	5.10b	Sport 35m, 18
15		★★ Re-Do Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021 FA: Michael Picone, 20 Nov 2021	5.11c	Sport 24m, 11
16		★ Like a Lizards Elbow P1 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2021	5.11c	Sport 24m, 11
17		★★★ Like a Lizards Elbow Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2021	5.11c	Sport 35m, 2, 19
18		★★ Nasi Goreng Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2021 FA: Rizki Tarisa, Nov 2021	5.10b	Sport 23m, 11
Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
19		★★ 肉夹馍 / Hot Stuffed Use whatever it takes to get to the anchors: slab in front, wall behind, and boulders to the left. This route is unlike any other at Lion's Head. A very physical, full body experience. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 FA: 任狐, 27 Dec	5.11+	Sport 17m, 9
20		★★ Cold Sliced A 70m rope will let you climb these two pitches as one. Highly recommend this climb for it's unique moves, holds and setting. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 FA: Maksim Komarov, 7 Jan	5.10+	Sport 17m, 10
21		Project This route is very technical and delicate slab climbing at it's finest. Use any holds on the slab, clipping route #22 hangars, but staying clear of the arete on the far right. The arete on the right side is off of this route; it cannot be used at any point. Who'll be the first to bag this hard FA? Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021	5.13+	SportProject 17m, 8
22		★★ 软柿子 / Easy Meat Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 FA: 任狐, 27 Dec	5.12-	Sport 17m, 9
23		Snakes and Ladders Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 1 Dec 2021 FA: Guy Healey, 12 Dec 2021	5.10-	Sport 16m, 7
24		★★ 接力 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Dec 2021 FA: 魏勇, 6 Jan	5.10+	Sport 17m, 8
25		Healer Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 3 Dec 2021 FA: Guy Healey, 12 Dec 2021	5.9	Sport 15m, 6

1.3. The Landing Zone 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.371064, 119.640292

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		动作游戏 P1 Set: 飞沙, 1 Nov 2021 FA: 飞沙, 2 Nov 2021	5.10d	Sport 22m, 11
2		动作游戏 Set: 飞沙, 1 Nov 2021 FA: 飞沙, 2 Nov 2021	5.12c	Sport 55m, 2, 27
3		指导员 / Director Warning Fixed Gear: Chossy Rock 希望所有人都可以尝试和体验岩与路的这种生活方式，走自己的路，攀自己的岩，走好路，攀好岩。 Set: 亮亮, 1 Nov 2021 FA: CC, 2 Nov 2021		Sport 25m, 11
4		Havana Club Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 1 Nov 2021 FA: Yelena González, 20 Nov 2021	5.9	Sport 16m, 6
5		#5 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2021	5.10a	Sport 18m, 7
Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
6		Pair of Sherpas Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2020	5.10a	Sport 3
7		★ Pair of Sherpas Pondering Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2020	5.10b	Sport 3
8		★★ Suspended Edge Can be an alternative start to the first pitch of White China. Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.10a	Sport 18m, 11

1.4. The Prow 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.371207, 119.640496

description

Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging climbing. A few climbs like "My Pain For Your Pleasure" or "Van Damned" deserve a try. Also home to the current two sport climbing multi pitches of Linan.

Better wear a helmet, as some of the routes are not often climbed and might have a few small loose rocks.

Routes near 'White China' are always shady, others get morning sun.

The belay area might be a bit steep at some point. Be careful.

approach

Left of Lion's Head. Get passed Lower 40s and Mika's Ledge. The Prow starts right at the corner.

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ White China P1: 14 bolts + top Set: Dave Gliddon & Andrew Hedesh, 2012	5.10c	Sport 78m, 4, 14
2		★★★ My Pain For Your Pleasure A few meters of fingery bouldery moves lead you to a section of long moves on open holds split in between with proper rest. A final sequence on positive slab is testing your ability to stay focused. More run out than other climbs in Linan. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2015	5.12a	Sport 24m, 12
3		★★★ Bamboo Reaming / 竹子爆菊 Do not go way off route to the mini ledge on the far, far right and rest there. You know what I'm talking about. Set: Marcos Costas & Joe Langwald (大石头), 2015	5.13a	Sport 24m, 12
4		★★ Cracked Up Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & Marcos Costas, 2015	5.12d	Sport 15m, 7
5		★★★ Baked / 烧烤 右侧的'Here Comes Santa' 不是这个线路的一部分。 For the first several bolts of this route stay on the face, do not stem onto the wall behind you. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2015	5.13a	Sport 29m, 16
6		★ Here Comes Santa Easy short chimney climbing. Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.7	Sport 15m, 7
7		★★★ 1000 Year Old Nachos / 千年老玉米 Set: Dave Gliddon & Andrew Hedesh, 2012	5.12d	Sport 25m, 12
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
8		★★ 风之谷 / Valley of the Wind Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 5 Jan FA: Zhengzheng, 6 Jan	5.11+	Sport 18m, 8
9		★★ Van Damned Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012	5.10d	Sport 18m, 9
10		★★★ Lion's Prow Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.11b	Sport 25m, 13
11		★★ Dragon Air P1 / 港龙航空 P1 Set: Francis Haden, 2013	5.12a	Sport 33m, 18
12		★★ Dragon Air / 港龙航空 Set: Francis Haden, 2013	5.12d	Sport 80m, 3, 20
13		★★ Bob's your uncle / 伯伯是你大爷 / 烟囱 Warning Fixed Gear: 从顶部下降时，最好用树根固定双绳下降到新的下降点，确保安全。 Bolts: 9,8,6,8,5 六神的非官方路书 Serious old school chimney climbing. The 5th pitch is face climbing and slightly harder than the rest. Rap down from the set of anchors on the left of the relay of the 4th pitch (2 raps of 35m). If you only have one 60m rope, you can abseil from the anchors of White China, across the platform. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2017	5.10b	Sport 100m, 5, 9

1.5. Mika's Ledge 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.371542, 119.640642

description

Impressive looking, vertical to overhanging crag. Even the easy routes are not that easy. But surely nice climbing in perspective.

A massive roof up on top of the mountain allows most of the routes of this sector to remain dry under the rain.

Half of the route starts off a 2 meters wide ledge that goes up to 8 meters. Be careful while belaying.

approach

Higher to the left after arriving at Lower 40's.

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Black Hole Heart Set: Tyson Wallace, 2012	5.10c	Sport 23m, 11
2		★★ Thumbercling 5.13a according to several people who sent it. Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.13a	Sport 28m, 15
Middle Ledge 中平台
4		★★ Big Trouble Little China Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.12b	Sport 14m, 9
5		★★★ Power Of 3, Crack / 小三 Set: Dave Gliddon & Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.11d	Sport 28m, 16
6		★★★ Power Of 3, Face / 大三 Set: Andrew Hedesh, Joe Langwald (大石头) & Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.12a	Sport 28m, 16
7		★★ Here Or There ?? Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.12c	Sport 11m, 5
8		★★★ Bruce Lee / 李小龙 FA: 阿成 Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.13d	Sport 11m, 5
9		★★ Red Beans And Rice / 红豆和米 Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.11a	Sport 20m, 10
10		★★★ Gecko Base Jumper / 飞虎队 Starts on top of 'Red Beans And Rice'. Updated to 5.14a by recent ascensionist (first ascent?). Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & Marcos Costa, 2012 FA: 任狐, Nov 2021	5.14a	Sport 21m, 10
11		★★ Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.10d	Sport 20m, 8
12		凤求凰 / Seeking Climb these two pitches as a single starting on 'Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer' to a good rest. Prepare yourself for steep climbing and big moves on varied holds to the next anchor 15m up. Set: 任狐, 24 Dec 2022 FA: 王清华, 28 Nov	5.14c	Sport 34m, 2, 18
13		涅槃 / Nirvana Climb these three pitches as a single starting on 'Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer' to a good rest. Prepare yourself for steep climbing and big moves on varied holds. Climb through the next anchor, 15m up which is the top of Phoenix Pursuit, and keep going till you top out onto the big ledge at Highlands. Congratulations! You've now climbed the hardest route at Lion's Head and one of the most difficult lines in all of China. Set: 任狐, 9 Sep 2023		SportProject 46m, 3, 26
Lower Right 右下
15		★ Jamm It ! Crack climbing Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.8	Sport 10m, 5
16		★★ Two Girls Waiting Warning Fixed Gear: Damaged Anchor First half of the route is a very technical slab climb with a powerful slightly overhung second half. Beautiful climb if you are delicate on your feet. Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.13b	Sport 24m, 12
17		★★ Monty Python Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012	5.12a	Sport 24m, 13
18		★★ Kung Fu Hustle Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.11d	Sport 25m, 12
19		★ Jet Li Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.12b	Sport 17m, 11
20		★★ Medicinal Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012	5.12a	Sport 17m, 11
UPPER RIGHT 右上
22		★★ Dave's Traverse Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.10a	Sport 15m, 6
23		★★★ 狮子王 / Lion King 从平台沿着路绳横移，在 '飞虎队' 的右边， '火力全开' 的左边。起点有保护站。 关于首攀临安最难线路“狮子王” Set: Marcos Costa & 任狐 FA: 任狐, 8 Dec 2022	5.14b	Sport 35m, 19
24		★★★ Full Power / 火力全开 Starts from the top of 'Medicinal', left branch. FA: 任狐 Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.13c	Sport 23m, 14
25		★★★ Airwalker Access the belay ledge (with a two-ring anchor for the belayer to use) for Airwalker in one of three ways; ~ A slabby traverse to the right of Mika's Ledge, at the terminus of 'Dave's Traverse' ~ A few meters above the anchor for 'Medicinal' ~ Traverse 1 meter left from halfway up the Midlands route 'The Air Up There' Airwalker veers to the right; the 5th bolt is where 'Airwalker' and 'Full Power' diverge. Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.11d	Sport 23m, 11

1.6. Midlands 10 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.371908, 119.640724

description

Slab to vertical climbing. Pretty impressive sector high above the bamboo forest. Top anchors leading to a fix rope which is the bottom of the Highlands sector.

The belay area is not the most comfortable, but still ok.

approach

Right side of Lion's Head. Get passed Lower 40s and Mika's Ledge. You will find a fixed rope to the right which you need to pull on to hike up the steep slope. The Midlands lie on the edge up there.

1.7. Highlands 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.371931, 119.640622

description

As stated in the name... High above the Midlands. Almost all the routes start from a very narrow edge. A fixed rope and bolts are provided for the belayer to clip in.

approach

From the Midlands, hike higher and higher to the right until you reach the start of the edge on the left. You can also get there by climbing Poker Night of Midlands.

爬上 Midlands 的Poker Night 和走右侧山路，都能到达。

Hide Legend Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Andrew's Traverse 35 meters long traverse on the edge on top of the Midlands. Marks the bottom of the Highlands. Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012	Class 5	Sport 35m
2		★★ Dislocated Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.11a	Sport 25m, 13
3		★★ Nope Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.11b	Sport 25m, 12
4		★★ Mr. Bean Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2013	5.12b	Sport 25m, 7
5		★★ Sweet Tooth Set: Andrew Hedesh & Lukas Hertlein, 2013	5.11c	Sport 25m, 12
6		★★ One Eye Monster Set: Marcos Costa, 2013	5.12a	Sport 25m, 12
7		★★ Brains Of A Turnip Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.12a	Sport 27m, 10
8		★★★ Klingon Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013 FA: 任狐, 11 Jun 2023	5.13b	Sport 27m, 10
9		★★★ Moment Of Truth Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2013	5.12c	Sport 24m, 10
10		★★★ Let The Moon Do The Magic Set: Ola Przybysz, 2013	5.13a	Sport 25m, 12
11		★★ Beauty Is A Cruel Mistress 线路会路过 Strider 的挂片, 不确定的话可以多带两把快挂. The route will pass by hanger for Strider, so if you're unsure, it's a good idea to bring a couple of extra quickdraws. Set: Francis Haden, 2013	5.11+	Sport 25m, 14
12		★★ Strider Set: Francis Haden, 2013	5.12b	Sport 29m, 18
13		★★★ Public Exposure Need to use the anchor of Beauty Is A Crual Mistress to lower or rappel. Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2013	5.10b	Sport 24m, 11

1.8. The People's Wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.370768, 119.640663

description

Newly bolted sector, by Joe Langwald 大石头.

Pleasantly shady, high friction rock very similar to that of Lower 40.

approach

Follow the well constructed stairs / trail just below and to climber's left of Mika's Ledge. From the terminus of the trail, continue to descend through bamboo forest, turn right to an obvious stone path. The wall is just ahead.

history

Opened beginning of 2021.

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ An Otter's Pocket Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2020	5.11a	Sport 11m, 4
2		★ 5 Star 9 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2020	5.9	Sport 13m, 6
3		★ Whatever You Say Joe Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & Andrew Hoban, Nov 2020	5.8	Sport 11m, 6
4		★★ Not Straight Up Start in Dihedral, after second bolt traverse to the left. It's not necessary but to make cleaning easier after clipping second bolt unclip first, after clipping third bolt unclip second, or just climb Rat Attack after. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2020	5.10c	Sport 16m, 8
5		★★ Rat Attack Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2020	5.10b	Sport 14m, 5
6		★★ Vincerò Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2020	5.10d	Sport 14m, 7
7		★★ It's There Start is same as route #6. Third bolt is the start of the variation going to the right under the roof. Last bolt and anchors same as #6. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2020	5.11d	Sport 15m, 8
8		★★ 霸王龙的梦魇 / Dinosaur's Nightmare Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2020	5.10b	Sport 14m, 8
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
9		★★ Chinese Street Mutt Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2020	5.10c	Sport 14m, 7
10		★★ 花大姐 / Ladybird Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2020	5.10b	Sport 15m, 7
11		★★ Ivy's Paradise Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2020	5.10b	Sport 14m, 5
12		★★ On the Woks Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2020	5.10c	Sport 14m, 5
13		★★ Sniper Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2020	5.10a	Sport 12m, 4
14		Why Not Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), Oct 2020	5.9	Sport 7m, 3

1.9. The Lookout 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.370319, 119.640839

1.10. Lower 40 29 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.372110, 119.641038

description

A bit down the hill, in the shade of the bamboo forest. Shorter wall with a few nice routes. The right part can stay dry under the rain.

approach

First sector you hit while hiking up to the crag. Separated into left and right parts.

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
左 Upper Left
2		★ Easy peazy / 简单 Very easy. Good for learning lead climbing. Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.6	Sport 12m, 6
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
3		★ Bees Knees Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.7	Sport 13m, 6
4		★★ Attitude / 态度 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.10b	Sport 14m, 7
5		★★ Ice Fall / 冰瀑布 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.10a	Sport 14m, 7
6		★★ Kriss Kross Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.10d	Sport 14m, 6
7		★★ Owl Eyes / 猫头鹰眼 Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012	5.10a	Sport 12m, 6
8		★★ Fish Lips / 鱼唇 Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012	5.10c	Sport 10m, 6
9		★★ Duck Feet / 鸭爪 Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012	5.10b	Sport 10m, 6
10		★ Butt Smear Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012	5.7	Sport 10m, 4
中 Downhill Middle
12		★ Hump that, Jonny! 10.2021 Now has an additional bolt (#4) at the bottom, and no longer feels run out. Joe在起步的地方加了一个新挂片，比较安全。 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2018	5.9	Sport 11m, 4
13		★★ Jonny's Hard 12 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2018	5.11b	Sport 4
14		★★ Jonny No Try 10.2021 Joe has adjusted the first three bolts for better flow, and has added a bolt at the bottom. Joe调整了最低下三个挂片，又在起步的地方加了一个新挂片。 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2018	5.11d	Sport 7
15		★★ Honey Hole Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.10d	Sport 13m, 6
16		★★ Round About Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.11b	Sport 14m, 7
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
17		★★ Love Lock / 爱之锁 Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.12b	Sport 14m, 9
18		★★ Ring Lock Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.11a	Sport 15m, 7
19		★★ Lock Jaw Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012	5.11c	Sport 15m, 7
20		★★ Handjam Contest Set: Lukas Hertlein, 2013	5.10b	Sport 20m, 8
21		★ Better Eat Your Wheaties Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2013	5.11b	Sport 18m, 7
右 Lower Right
23		★★ Scrubadub Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.11c	Sport 8m, 3
24		★★ Dammit! Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.11b	Sport 8m, 4
25		★ Jiggy With It Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.8	Sport 16m, 7
26		★ Buggin Out Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.9	Sport 16m, 7
27		★ Jungle Jym Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.8	Sport 15m, 5
28		★ Gutted Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.10b	Sport 17m, 7
29		★★ First blood / 第一滴血 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 2013	5.10b	Sport 20m, 9
30		★★ The Jesus Line Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2013	5.10c	Sport 17m, 6
31		★★ Angry Baboon Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2013	5.10b	Sport 18m, 7
32		★★ Heavy Flavour / 重口味 Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2013	5.12d	Sport 17m, 8

1.11. The Come-along Crag 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.373081, 119.640877

description

Developed in 2017, official topo, grades and names are pending

approach

From Lower 40, follow a trail north, about 3 minutes walk, the crag is on your left hand side

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Oozer Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & gerry Bowers, 2017	5.9	Sport 14m, 6
2		★ Partnercide Set: gerry Bowers & Joe Langwald (大石头), 2017	5.10b	Sport 14m, 6
3		★ Pip Pip Gerry Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & gerry Bowers, 2017	5.10d	Sport 14m, 7
4		Chaiman Oscar Set: gerry Bowers & Joe Langwald (大石头), 2017	5.10a	Sport 14m, 6
5		Watch Your Foot Set: gerry Bowers & Joe Langwald (大石头), 2017	5.10b	Sport 16m, 7
6		★★ 5.10+ Set: gerry Bowers & Joe Langwald (大石头), 2017	5.11c	Sport 14m, 6
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		Bubbles Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & gerry Bowers, 2017	5.6	Sport 14m, 4
8		Top rope Set: 2017		Top rope 13m

1.12. Mammut's Hump 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.372528, 119.641782

description

Big boulder with a few short routes bolted on it. Short, but still worth a climb.

approach

On the way up to the main sectors of Linan, this big boulder can be found left of the path. Be sure that you hike up through the trail which heads to the right part of Lower 40's. The other paths up to the top of the mountain do not pass by this sector.

1.13. Big Rig 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 30.371761, 119.642104

description

Newly bolted sector, by Joe Langwald 大石头.

Comfortable belay right beside the stairs, short and powerful routes on good rock.

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		City Boy / 娇生惯养 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 14 Dec 2022 FA: 朴男, 23 Dec 2022	5.10b	Sport 16m, 6
2		Monkey in the Engine / 引擎里的猴子 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头), 14 Dec 2022 FA: Ian 溫翊恩, 17 Dec 2022	5.10d	Sport 16m, 7
3		#3 Set: 汤泯 & Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2022		SportProject 16m, 10
4		#4 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & 汤泯, Nov 2022		SportProject 16m, 9
5		5 Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & 汤泯, Nov 2022		SportProject 16m, 9
6		Road Train / 牵引车 Set: 汤泯 & Joe Langwald (大石头), Nov 2022 FA: Michael Picone, 25 Feb 2023	5.12a	Sport 16m, 9

1.14. Trad 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 30.372646, 119.640396

approach

走过lower40 RS区域之后，沿着左上方山谷往上行走，无明显轨迹，约100-150米左右留意右侧大块岩体，往右切沿着岩石有一段略陡的土路，翻上去继续进行，走到尽头后往左拐爬山石头坡即可看见岩壁和起步区域。

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Desolation Crack FFA: Pat, 3 Jun 2018	5.10	Trad 35m
2		★★ Secret Dihedral By Jay 章鱼 起步后7-8米是喇叭口形状的夹角烟囱，夹角有条手指细裂缝，无大手点脚点，且整体呈轻微仰角往上延伸，难度约10b，基本采用背撑方式往上挪，此段可放置小号机械塞或中号块塞，接近仰角上部裂缝渐宽，其中卡死一块拳头大石块，用绳套套住成为极佳的天然rock nut，安心不少，翻出仰角后进入直壁路段。 约6-7米直壁手掌宽平行裂缝路段，难度约10a左右，可安心放置中号机械塞，爬到一处小屋檐下休息，可见旁边屋檐底下巨大的蜂巢，已经废弃。屋檐夹角下有一处水平裂缝放置一个中号机械塞，需延长快挂，顿时让翻屋檐变的很安全。 翻上屋檐之后是一段5-6米略轻松的直壁路段，难度约.9+，直上来到一颗健康的小树，快乐的套上扁带，妥妥的安全。 过了小树保护点，进入一段轻微正角度的face面简单路段，难度约.9长度约7-8米，一路没有地方放置保护点，大概在距离小树6-7米高的地方才放置了塞子，虽然简单也是心跳加快。 最近翻上布满草丛的平台，拖着沉重的绳子走近顶部的大树，发现用大树做上方保护比较累，人是吊在树上的，于是在下方平台出用三把塞子建立了一个保护站，坐在平台边缘轻松的进行上方保护，看着风景等待跟攀搭档。 最后用70米绳子绕树绳降一次到底，总体来说，线路品质不错，可攀性好，最爱起步那段dihedral，另外放置保护点选择较多，常规尺寸塞子即可应付，安全性较高。 线路攀爬使用装备清单（仅供参考） 70m single rope（到顶后绕树下降，直接rappel down到底） 15 alpine draws DMM Dragon Cam #1-6 DMM Wallnuts #4#6#8 DMM Torque Nuts #2 2 BD 60cm slings（一个用于裂缝中卡死的石块，一个用于手臂粗细的树） FFA: Pat, 3 Jun 2018	5.10-	Trad 35m

1.15. Bouldering 33 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 30.372770, 119.643369

Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ #1 Sit start on obvious rail moving right and then directly up before the mini roof. FA: 陈志忠, 12 Dec 2020	V4	Boulder 2m
2		★★★ #2 Sit start on the obvious rail moving right staying low through some powerful moves until you find yourself under the mini roof before heading up. FA: 陈志忠, 12 Dec 2020	V5	Boulder 2m
3		#3	V0	Boulder
4		#4	V1	Boulder
5		#5	V2	Boulder
6		#6	V2	Boulder
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
7		#7	V1	Boulder
8		#8	V0	Boulder
9		#9	V2	Boulder
10		指力挑战 FA: 章鱼, 24 Nov 2021	V6	Boulder
11		#11	V2	Boulder
12		#12	V2	Boulder
13		#13	V3	Boulder
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
14		#14	V0	Boulder
15		#15	V1	Boulder
16		#16	V2	Boulder
17		#17	V3	Boulder
18		#18	V3	Boulder
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
19		小心背后 FA: 章鱼, 24 Nov 2021	V4	Boulder
20		#20	V3	Boulder
21		#21	V2	Boulder
22		勇敢的高脚 Set: 章鱼, 24 Nov 2021	V5	Boulder
23		#23	V0	Boulder
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
24		★ Meat Pole Sit Start, directly beneath the vertical crease in the wall with hands on the obvious rail. heading straight up in an moderately obvious sequence. FA: Michael Picone, 7 Aug 2022	V0	Boulder 3m
25		★ #25 Sit Start, Directly below the highest point of the boulder heading straight up. the holds are all very obvious but yet not as easy as you first expect.	V2	Boulder 3m
26		★ Budgie Smugler Stand Start at the FAR LEFT side of the boulder on the large rounded jug before traversing directly right. Stay LOW and use face holds only before reaching around the far corner. FA: Michael Picone, 7 Aug 2022	V3	Boulder 5m
27		★ Banana Hammock Stand Start at the FAR LEFT side of the boulder on the large rounded jug before traversing directly right into the start of "#25" before climbing straight up on the obvious holds. FA: Michael Picone, 7 Aug 2022	V2	Boulder 4m
28		★ Slab Step Hands match large sidepull, feet start low. Up to the sharp undercling where a rock has broken. Step up, finish by climbing directly up. Holds left of the sharp undercling are off route. FA: Ian 溫翊恩	V2	Boulder
29		#29 Stand Start, left hand on sidepull/undercling and right hand on small horizontal face crimp. Head right until both feet are on the obvious foot rail and then directly up and left taking advantage of a small right hand crimp and some sloped edges. good luck finding decent feet. FA: Joe Langwald (大石头)	V5	Boulder 5m
30		★★ #30 Stand start on obvious foot rail before heading up and right through the mini in-cut corner.	V2	Boulder 5m
31		★★ #31 sit start with left hand on sloper and right hand in the crimp pockets. After engaging head out directly through the roof and as you pass the roof you can head out to the right. There are multiple sequences out of the roof you just need to find what works for you. FA: 陈志忠, 14 Dec 2020	V6	Boulder 2m
Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide Hide Edit Add item to topo Topo Admin Link to this topo Hide
		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
32		★★★ 达利的梦 Sit Start low with hands matching and obvious start hold. Feet are scarce. Head up and left and then straight up and over taking advantage of some incredibly small crimps and powerful moves. This climb is special if you have what it takes to do it. FA: 红树, 22 Dec 2020	V9	Boulder 4m
33		桂花秋 Starting under the roof this is a huge dynamic move out to a good hold. I hope you are feeling strong today! FA: ClimberAwen, 25 Oct 2021	V8	Boulder