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Summary

Easy to reach, sunny, with a couple of great climbs that should not be missed. Great cliff, perfect for a day sitting around in the sun to enjoy some great climbs and maybe even a dip in the river!

Description

Biggest crag of Xianju, with around 40 routes bolted. Most of them around 5.9/5.10, and a few harder lines in 5.11/12. Located at the entrance of the village Xiaye, south of Xianju. The river bed which is against the cliff face has been filled in and the later dug back out. as of 16/02/2021 the river bed has been dug out and several of the climbs now have a (relative to the grade) hard start move to get off the ground.

石质:牛鼻洞岩石属于火山灰沉积岩,有较强的颗粒感,摩擦力很强,同时也比较容易伤手。 接近性:非常好的接近性,岩场就在河滩边,停车穿过河滩就到,四驱车甚至可以直接开到岩壁下。 耐雨性:小雨可攀一部份线路。 光照:夏季11点之前岩壁照不到。 攀爬季:最佳季节秋季。

Access issues inherited from 仙居 Xianju

Approach

Head south from the village, the crag is on the left, close to the river. 5 to 10 minutes walk from the center of the village. From the village park your car near the steel suspension bridge. you will then walk across the suspension bridge and head right on the paved walkway around to the cliff. you will need to drop off the edge of the walkway onto the river bed and walk the last 50 - 100 meters to the cliff face.

Where to stay

Several small hotels in the village.

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Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Warning 主岩场 Main Wall cliff
34
114
11m
2

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