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La Mojarra

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 55
  • Ascents: 613
  • Aka: boquete de la mojarra

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Summary

Sandstone climbing with stunning views, easy access and local climbing hostels.

Description

La Mojarra is a climbing area south of Bucaramunga and one of the major climbing destinations of Colombia. The impressive cliff band is located on top of a side canyon of the famous Cañón del Chicamocha. La Mojarra offers mostly sport (and some trad) climbing on good quality sandstone. As the cliff sees morning sun, it is best climbed in the afternoon after 12 o'clock when essentially all routes are in the shade.

Many climbers stay here at the hostels to climb the cliffs just below.

Access issues

The crag is on private land, and you will have to pay an entrance fee. This fee is partially or wholly paid by the hostels if you stay in them.

You also have to sign a waiver the first time you come for climbing and demonstrate your anchor cleaning and knot skills.

The crag is open for climbing from Tuesday to Sunday (and Monday on public holidays). Friday to Sunday it opens at 10:30, during the week at 12:00. It closes at 18:00.

Approach

Take a bus south from Bucaramunga to Los Santos de la Mesa. It may be easier to first go to Piedecuesta and then change busses. If coming from the south, first get to Piedecuesta. Get off the Los Santos bus 5km before the terminal at the hostel La Roca. Access to the crag from here is obviously signed.

If you arrive by car park directly at the parking after the turn off for La Roca (6.779505, -73.085828) in the gentle right turn and hike down the short path to the entrance gate.

Sectors are listed as sign-posted at the crag from right to left as you walk in along the cliff base.

There were some changes in numbering in about 2020 which might be confusing when looking at older guides (mostly after sector 8). The numbering used here corresponds to the sign-posts at the cliff.

Where to stay

Hostels La Roca and Juan Palitos service this crag. It is cheaper to access the crag if you stay at one of these hostels. You can also camp there, but fees are comparable to the dorms.

Ethic

This is a private crag, any route setting is at the discretion of the owners. Entry must be paid.

History

History timeline chart

The park was discovered in the 1990's by Partners Juan Carlos Poveda, Juan Carlos Santander, Alejandro Navas and Fabian Carreño, who began with route development in 1999. Ricardo Cancelado, Juan Sebastian Ragua and some other climbers from Bogota continued development of the climbing area.

Routes

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Grade Route

The sector right above the entrance gate.

Climbs the obvious roof.

Climbs the flake to the chimney where it is run out. Be prepared or place gear.

Nice bouldery moves.

Starts on the ledge reached from sector 1 and shares the anchor with ‘Echando a perder se aprende’.

The sector just above and behind the entrance gate.

Originally graded 10b. Starts from below and passes tight of the roof corner.

Starts just to the right of Pulse. Initially graded 11a but a fair bit harder.

Beautiful route following the broken crack line. Head left at final bolt for the anchor.

Acrobatic start from the ledge at the first bolt then veers right around the bulge. Shares final bolt with La Mojarra Mecanica. Same anchor as Pulse.

Extension of "Sol de media noche"

Climbs the roof.

Follows the crack right trending to the roof.

Upper (more right) extension of "La ultima hora". Passes under the second roof.

Lower (more left) extension of "La ultima hora". Passes under the first roof.

Starts in the corner and climbs up right in the roof.

Route Video

Follow up "Fuego en la proa" up to the roof, then climb left out of it.

Climbs the left face of this sector, left trending.

Climbs the featured face just before the trail heads up for a bit.

New route on the left of Gullich

Set: Jose Tomas Labrin, 5 Nov

Shares anchor with Verde va.

Same start as Prosopoeyate then left.

Steep right trending climb to the roof and a short finish on the face.

Route Video

Typical bouldery start then great technical climbing on crimps up the face.

Starts at the big roof with big holds to the right.

New route right behind the "sector 8" sign.

Set: Jose Tomas Labrin, 4 Nov

Climbs the face to a small roof.

Thin crack line in the first half then a small roof to negotiate. Finishes off with a wider crack on a cool arete feature.

Lovely long route following the obvious flake feature.

This is where the new numbering starts compared to some older topos, so don't get confused ;-).

First route in sector 9 when you come off the main trail.

Starts just to the right of a big flat boulder plate.

Short and pumpy with great long moves through the crux. Stay left after second bolt so you don't stray onto the 11d. 2 glue in bolts at anchor.

A short route well protected from the rain under a big roof.

Shares anchor with Portal Rolo.

Extension of Portal Rolo.

Starts on top of the ledge in the corner and climbs beautiful rock.

Second pitch of "Portal Rolo". There are two lines of bolts above "Portal Rolo". This is the right one.

Traverse that arrives at anchor of "Ganjedi".

Same start as “La oculta” and then left at the second bolt after the roof.

Starts left of the crack feature on the white rock, then steep to the bulge and trends slightly right on the vertical section to the anchor.

Extension of "Brostidarks".

Trends right to the anchor of "Plan chamanico".

Just left of "El silencio de los inocentes". Climb the corner to bolt 2 and then traverse right on the ledge with lots of loose rock before going up over the roof and on to the face.

Same start as "Entre canibales" but then left on the ledge.

Second bolt is in the roof.

Starts at the corner where the approach path turns slightly right.

Same start as "La Zanahoria" but go right on the ledge after bolt 2.

Just right of Antigravity climbing through the small roof at bolt 3 and up straight to the anchors. There is a single bolt at the left after bolt 7 that leads to the anchor of Antigravity

Climb up on the ledge and then follow the corner / dihedral and up right to the anchors. Don't get confused and climb left to the anchors of "Animalario" which can also be reached easily.

Slightly right trending line.

Initially a trad line but now bolted. Start at the low bulge with 2 bolts and then make your way into the crack system. The anchor is a bit right off the line. While not really run-out there is significant space between some of the bolts.

Climbs to the anchor on the left wall, just below the ledge.

Climbs the crack to a big roof and then on to the face.

Alternative start to the much harder "El Gerber para una princesa"(5.13b). Start in the corner on the left, traversing up and to the right after the 1st bolt. Straight up on overhanging terrain after 3rd bolt, with a traverse to the left. Exit on slab. Beautiful, continuous route demanding endurance.

FA: Rafael Ávila

Tricky start then good holds up to the big roof. Once through the roof it gets easier, if a little runout.

Nicely exposed line at the end of the sector.

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