Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 22nd Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Anića kuk Anića kuk - Stup | |||||||
5b |
★★★ Karabore
1
5a
2
4b
3
5b
4
5a
| 120m | |||||
Fri 21st Oct 2022 - Biokovo | |||||||
Brela Grb | |||||||
6a |
Capitan Pampirula
1
2
3
| 88m | |||||
Fri 14th Oct 2022 - Hvar | |||||||
Lučišća Vilinja špilja | |||||||
6b | ★★ Jugo | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Some loose rock in the route
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6a+ | ★ Rozi | ★ Good | |||||
There is still quite a bit of loose rock
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6c | ★★ Lil’ Jura B. | ★★ Very Good | |||||
1 try, fell right at the anchor. It wasn't obvious to me at all how to clip the chain and it took me several attempts to find a beta (and the holds). Knowing the beta and where the holds are, the grade is probably about right. Nice route
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7b | ★★★ Tonsai playgirl | ★★★ Classic | |||||
2nd try. Really nice, the crux is a traverse in an almost 90° overhang on tufas which was not too hard once I had found the beta and the kneebar (long trousers or kneepad for the left leg will make the kneebar much less painful than it was for me). Clipping the chain also took some attempts, but it's not so hard if you put your feet in the right places. Before the traverse, there is some nice and easy vertical climbing, however there's still some loose rock.
The fixed quickdraw can only be opened and closed with a considerable amount of force, avoid it if possible or use only when going down again to make collecting the quickdraws in the lower part easier. |
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7c | ★★★ Yosemite Sam | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Nice 7a climbing on tufas up to the third bolt before the chain. Then there is a short overhanging boulder of about 2 metres with really small sidepulls before you get to some jugs. The boulder looked really hard to me and I decided it would probably take too long to find a beta, I'm not sure I could even climb it. After the jugs, you're almost at the anchor but clipping the anchor is quite hard. I didn't really try the last move anymore as I had already decided not to climb the route again, but I think clipping the chain would probably have been possible if had tried for a few minutes. I can't say if 7c is the correct grade, it depends on whether there is a nice solution to the boulder problem.
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Fri 14th Oct 2022 - Omiš | |||||||
Babina Bara | |||||||
5a | ★★ Vukojarac - with Claudia | 33m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Hammer Aussicht
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Thu 13th Oct 2022 - Biokovo | |||||||
Brela Antonia | |||||||
5+ | ★★★ Grah i bijeli luk - with Sylvana | ||||||
5c | ★★ Andrea - with Sylvana | 25m | |||||
5b+ | ★★★ Bizi Hypo - with Sylvana | 15m | |||||
5b | ★★ Polpastrili - with Sylvana | 35m | |||||
6a+ | ★ La Sberla - with Sylvana | 35m | |||||
5c | ★★ A Moro - with Sylvana | 30m | |||||
6a | Er ciambrotto - with Sylvana | 25m | |||||
5+ | ★★★ Grah i bijeli luk - with Erik | ||||||
5c | ★★ Andrea - with Erik | 25m | |||||
5b+ | ★★★ Bizi Hypo - with Erik | 15m | |||||
5b | ★★ Polpastrili - with Erik | 35m | |||||
6a+ | ★ La Sberla - with Erik | 35m | |||||
5c | ★★ A Moro - with Erik | 30m | |||||
6a | Er ciambrotto - with Erik | 25m | |||||
Thu 13th Oct 2022 - Hvar | |||||||
Pokrivenik D - Posejdon | |||||||
6c | ★★ Posejdon | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b | ★★ Afrodita | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Argo | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Really nice endurance climbing on tufas, I was really pumped by the time I reached the anchor. At the third bolt, there's also a short boulder problem.
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7c | Padang Padang | 30m | Average | ||||
2 tries, maybe I would have liked it better if had figured out the initial boulder crux. Very inhomogeneous: the crux is a boulder problem right at the beginning which involves holding a really sharp sidepull crimp (at least I couldn't see how to avoid it) which hurts quite a bit. Then you get some good holds before another series of weird moves gets you to the 4th bolt. Then, there is some 6a+ climbing until you get to a second harder part in an overhang much higher in the route which starts with a very awkward clip and then one relatively far move to the right. This part is maybe 7a. Then it's again something like 6a+ to the chain.
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Wed 12th Oct 2022 - Biokovo | |||||||
Brela Antonia | |||||||
5b | ★★ Il marchese del grillo - with Sylvana | 30m | |||||
5+ | ★★ Last minute - with Sylvana | ||||||
6a | ★★ Tizi - with Sylvana | 30m | |||||
4a | ★ Via Antonia - with Sylvana | 50m | |||||
4c | ★★ Se keine problem - with Sylvana | 25m | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Brzo! - with Sylvana | 15m | |||||
6a | ★★ Neverin - with Sylvana | 15m | |||||
5b | ★★ Il marchese del grillo - with Erik | 30m | |||||
5+ | ★★ Last minute - with Erik | ||||||
6a | ★★ Tizi - with Erik | 30m | |||||
4a |
★ Via Antonia
- with
Erik
1
2
3
| 50m | |||||
4c | ★★ Se keine problem - with Erik | 25m | |||||
6a+ | ★★★ Brzo! - with Erik | 15m | |||||
6a | ★★ Neverin - with Erik | 15m | |||||
Wed 12th Oct 2022 - Hvar | |||||||
Vela Stiniva C – Cave | |||||||
6b 6b/b+ | ★★ Santa Maria | 12m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6b+ | ★★★ Lavanda | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7b+ | ★★ Crossing Villi | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard to say if it is really 7b+, in any case I was really pumped after climbing the crux which was a traverse to the right relatively low in the route, and then two more moves on slopers up to a jug. I couldn't get rid of the pump until the end, but the upper part was easier, fortunately.
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7a+ 7a+/b | ★★ Message in the bottle | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd try
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7b+ | ★★ Spartak | 13m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2 tries, there is a hard (overhanging) crux in the middle which we couldn't figure out. I made progress deciphering the sequence until the end, but it took so long that I decided to try something else
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Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Hvar | |||||||
Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase A1 Garden | |||||||
7b | ★★ Jeniffer lady | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Almost flash, I had climbed the hardest sequence but didn't chalk up and my fingers were finally too sweaty to go any further
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Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Hvar | |||||||
Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase B2 Shadow | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Robinja | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 11th Oct 2022 - Hvar | |||||||
Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase D1 Tower North | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Miss jadrana | 33m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The overhanging final few metres were too hard on the first try without any chalk marking the holds
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6a+ | ★★★ Pizdić sten | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Omiš | |||||||
Planovo | |||||||
6a | ★★ Mućka - with Sylvana | 25m | |||||
6a | ★★ Rosa Luxembourg - with Sylvana | 22m | |||||
6a | ★★ Mućka - with Erik | 25m | |||||
5c | Tonka se prokurbala - with Erik | 23m | |||||
6a | ★★ Rosa Luxembourg - with Erik | 22m | |||||
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Lokrum | |||||||
5+ | ★ It’s time to go gurl | ★ Good | |||||
5 | ★ A$AP Anna | ★ Good | |||||
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Karin | |||||||
Cassin | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Oktoberfest | 14m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Realized a bit late that there was a hornets' nest in one of the holes right next to the 5th bolt which you couldn't really keep your distance from. Had to get back down, we retrieved the quickdraws from above
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7a | ★★★ Cochize | 14m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
7b | ★★ Zlatno Tele | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7b+ | ★★★ Jailbreak | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
2 tries, I tend to agree with the guide book which says 7b+/c. Hard boulder after the 2nd bolt already, then again hard at the 4th bolt. Only made it with rests at bolts 3 and 4.
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Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Omiš | |||||||
Planovo | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Ne jedi patuljke - with Sylvana | 23m | |||||
5c | ★★ Pop slindro - with Sylvana | 23m | |||||
6a | ★★ Apartmani Kuzmić - with Sylvana | 22m | |||||
5a | ★★ Kate - with Sylvana | 23m | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Ne jedi patuljke - with Erik | 23m | |||||
5c | ★★ Pop slindro - with Erik | 23m | |||||
6a | ★★ Apartmani Kuzmić - with Erik | 22m | |||||
5a | ★★ Kate - with Erik | 23m | |||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Koludar | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Doturski | 170m, 56 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Kukovi ispod Vlake North face | |||||||
4c |
★★ Nosorog
- with
Anna Gribovskaia
| 150m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Ljuska | |||||||
6b | ★★ Aanvallluhhhh | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 9th Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Zava | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Zima | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Omiš | |||||||
Planovo | |||||||
5a | ★★ Active hollidays - with Sylvana | 23m | |||||
5b | ★★ Joskan - with Sylvana | 23m | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Svemir - with Sylvana | 23m | |||||
5b | ★★ Luči - with Sylvana | 22m | |||||
6a | ★ Omiški leut - with Sylvana | 22m | |||||
5b | ★ Artis - with Sylvana | 22m | |||||
5a | ★★ Active hollidays - with Erik | 23m | |||||
5b | ★★ Joskan - with Erik | 23m | |||||
6a+ | ★★ Svemir - with Erik | 23m | |||||
5b | ★★ Luči - with Erik | 22m | |||||
6a | ★ Omiški leut - with Erik | 22m | |||||
5b | ★ Artis - with Erik | 22m | |||||
Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Biokovo | |||||||
Vrisove glavice | |||||||
5c | ★ Fra Dolcino | 170m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 8th Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Anića kuk Anića kuk - Northwest | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Velebitaški
1
5b
350m
2
4a
3
4c
4
4b
5
5b
6
6a+
7
5a
8
3
9
4a
10
4a
| 350m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
6a+ |
★★★ Velebitaški
1
5b
350m
2
4a
3
4c
4
4b
5
5b
6
6a+
7
5a
8
3
9
4a
10
4a
| 350m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Krokodil | |||||||
6b | ★★★ Auskneifer | 15m | |||||
6a+ | OO | 15m | |||||
Trochę jurajskie trochę paklenickie 🙂
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Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Jupi | |||||||
6a | ★★ Jupi | 12m | |||||
6a+ | ★ Condor | 10m | |||||
Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Anića kuk Anića kuk - North | |||||||
6a+ |
★★★ Ljubljanski
1
4b+
220m
2
5a
3
6a+
4
6a
5
5a
6
4a
| 220m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 7th Oct 2022 - Omiš | |||||||
Stomorica Stomorica Right | |||||||
6a | ★★ Kapljica | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
4b | ★★ Tičica | 18m, 4 | |||||
5a | ★★ Cidokor | 20m | |||||
Thu 6th Oct 2022 - Paklenica | |||||||
Klanci Krokodil | |||||||
6b | ★★ Krokodil | 22m | |||||
Overhang
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Thu 6th Oct 2022 - Čikola | |||||||
Osoje B | |||||||
4b | ★★★ Cikaš - with Sylvana | 25m | |||||
4b | ★★ Kljucni - with Sylvana | 25m | |||||
5a | ★★ Team Rabbit - with Sylvana | 16m | |||||
5a | ★★ Brzi - with Sylvana | 14m |