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Description

This is the wall on the left as you enter the cave. Several routes are "outside" the cave (ie. on or before the large boulder/chockstone).

Easy climbs at entrace of cave.

Ethic inherited from Cuba

Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the second line of bolts back from the boulder/chockstone. Follows a crack system which widens towards the top. Rock can be sharp. The last few metres are a little blank.

Just to the right of the Unknown 5, before the boulder/chockstone. Climb fairly juggy holds straight up, past the root system of a tree (watch out for poison ivy growing amongst the roots!).

Easiest climb in Cuba, but still fun. Starts outside cave entrance, head up sharp rock on left wall.

Has been well bolted since the guide book was published in 2005. Also, seems to have been extended past the original tree anchor to a bolted anchor, and the extension seems harder than 3+, at least 4 maybe 4+.

FA: David Ryan & Armando Menocal, 2001

At cave entrance, climb onto the boulder/chockstone. Follow tufa to anchors.

FA: Josué Millo & Alison Andur, 2002

The first route on the left wall after entering the cave. Start two metres from the downclimb and head straight up to the ledge with trees on it (anchors behind). Holds are small and footwork is precise. Crux is just below the ledge.

FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001

Directly across form the first big tufa on the Right Wall.

Rebolted with glue ins, expansion bolt next to glue in at first bolt.

Climbs the slightly overhanging but juggy area to the left of On Belay Hombre. The first bolts can be hard to see (torch or local knowledge useful). Watch out for the smelly bat cave as you clip the anchors. (Note: Guidebook gives 6c, but locals are adamant that it’s 6b.)

FA: Eduard Viana & Carlos Pinela, 2001

Just left of Leche de Mipalo with brown hangers. Shares first last bolt and anchor with Leche de Mipalo.

This route goes up the white pinchy tufas at the end of the cave to a first anchor on a big ledge. There are 2 more bolts that link this route to the anchor of the one further right. Shares last bolt and anchor with On Belay Hombre. Pinchy tufas down low lead to pockets.

This route starts on brown rock just right of Leche de Mipalo and shares the anchor with its extension.

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Activity

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