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Description

Climbing allowed 1.7.-31.1.

Access issues inherited from Hřensko

available in Hřensko (50.8750, 14.2540) or Mezní Louka (50.8727, 14.3164), both paid. Do not ever park at street side. You will get fined.

Ethic inherited from České Švýcarsko

Nature Park rules overwrite the general sandstone climbing rules:

  1. Only certain crags are permitted for climbing. Those closed for climbing are all highlighted with #closed tag.

  2. Climbing is allowed only in certain months. See Description of each cliff.

  3. Use of chalk is prohibited.

  4. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.

  5. No changing of the rock surface.

  6. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  7. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  8. First ascents must be approved upfront from national park and ČHS administration. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  9. Only official access paths can be used. See maps attached in the particular areas.

Referred official document: https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/332/056710.pdf?seek=1594370530

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Routes

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Grade Route

CZ:

6m right of the bigh rock gate wall to 1st ring. Leftwards wall (ring) and crack to the top.

6m rechts vom großen Felsentor Wand zu 1.R. Linkshaltend Wand (R) und Riss zG.

FA: Manfred Vogel & H. Heller, 1995

CZ:

Aus dem großen Felsentor nach links auf Terasse. Riss auf band. Links queren zu Kamin und wie "Schartenweg" zG.: Kamin zu kleinem Absatz in der Talseite. Wand zG.

FA: Reinhold Greter & W. Löschner, 1905

CZ:

In der Südwestwand Wandstufe zu band und links zu Verschneidung. Diese zu 2. Band und rechts queren (Birke). Wand zu R. Rissfolge und Kamin, oben wie "Schartenweg" zG.

FA: Karl Beier & and friends, 1912

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