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Description

Climbing allowed 1.7.-31.1.

Access issues inherited from Hřensko

available in Hřensko (50.8750, 14.2540) or Mezní Louka (50.8727, 14.3164), both paid. Do not ever park at street side. You will get fined.

Ethic inherited from České Švýcarsko

Nature Park rules overwrite the general sandstone climbing rules:

  1. Only certain crags are permitted for climbing. Those closed for climbing are all highlighted with #closed tag.

  2. Climbing is allowed only in certain months. See Description of each cliff.

  3. Use of chalk is prohibited.

  4. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.

  5. No changing of the rock surface.

  6. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  7. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  8. First ascents must be approved upfront from national park and ČHS administration. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  9. Only official access paths can be used. See maps attached in the particular areas.

Referred official document: https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/332/056710.pdf?seek=1594370530

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Routes

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Grade Route

CZ:

From northwest wall or chimney to presummit. Follow the edge in southeast direction. Overstep to the main summit. Wall to the top.

Von der Scharte (Nordwesten) Wandstufe oder Kamin von Norden auf langgestreckten Vorgipfel. Grat in Südostrichtung verfolgen. Übertritt zum Hauptgipfel und Wand zG.

FA: Friedrich Meurer, 1888

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