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11 Lucifer (Světlonoš) / Light Carrier

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 2
  • Aka: Luzifer (Lichtträger)

Access: Temporary Climbing Closures 1.1.-30.4./30.6.

CECK HERE!

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Created 15 days ago

Seasonality

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M
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Access issues inherited from Czechia

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

Ethic inherited from Czechia

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

Routes

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Grade Route

Von NW Kamin durchgehen zu Terrasse. Auf Band rechts und Riss in Scharte. Rechts durch Fenster in die Talseite. Rinne zu Abs. und (unterst.) Wand zG.

FA: Alfred Schneeweiß, K.Triemer, M.Thieme, A.Herrmann & H.Förster, 1939

Aus der Scharte links Rißverschneidung bis hinter Pfeiler. Wie ÜBERRASCHUNGSWEG z.G.

FA: Filip Tichý & S. Beneš, 1993

ÜBERRASCHUNGSWEG in die Scharte. Spreize zwischen Pfeiler und Gipfel, rechtshaltend Wand zG.

FA: Karel Hauschke & J.Němeček, 1961

In der NO-Wand Riss über 2R zum Abs. des TRAUMES DER ALTEN HERREN. Diesen zG.

FA: Jürgen Höfer & Manfred Vogel, 1996

Links der Südecke Riss über 3R zu Band. Querg. rechts zur Kante(4.R). Wand rechts und ÜBERRASCHUNGSWEG zG.

FA: Manfred Vogel & H. Paul, 1996

1 VIIIa 20m
2 VIIIa 20m

From the west corner traverse right (2 rings), further right overstep "Hadi Spara", arete (abseil bolt) to belay ledge. Arete and wall (3 rings) to the top.

Von der Westecke rechts queren (R) zu Absatz (2.R). Spreizschritt über Riß und schräg rechts(nR) auf gr. Absatz (abgesägter Baum durch AÖ ersetzt). Wand schräg rechts (4.R) zur Kante, diese zum 5.R. Wand zu Rampe und rechts zum 6.R. Wand gerade, oben linkshaltend (7.R) z. G.

FA: Stanislav Beneš und Bronislav Dlouhý, D. Vašata, L. Kubina, L. Hloušek, F. Tichý, J. Jindra & V. Líbal, 1993

Den TRAUM DER ALTEN HERREN zum 3.R. Wand links über 2R, oben links zu Band. Wieder rechts und gerade zu Rampe. Südkante über 2R zG.

FA: Karel Šimek und Stanislav Lukavský & V.Horák, 2002

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