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Summary

Malá skalní oblast lokálního významu. Cesty popsány zleva.// Small local area. Routes described from the left.

Description

Skála se nachází pod vrcholem zalesněného kopce. Její stěna je výšky 10 metrů, šířky 15 metrů, je orientovaná na jih, cesty jsou kolmé, nebo kombinace v tomto pořadí: převis, položená nebo kolmá. Charakter skály nabízí lezení po oblinách, lištách, ale najde se něco i pro žabáky. V převislých, ale i kolmých částech stěny se najdou zajímavé kroky, traverzy. //

The rock is located below the top of a forested hill. Its wall is 10 meters high, 15 meters wide, facing south, the paths are perpendicular, or combinations in the following order: overhang, laid or perpendicular. The character of the rock offers climbing on the oblique, the bar, but there is also something for frogs. In the overhanging but also perpendicular parts of the wall there are interesting steps, traverses.

Access issues inherited from Czechia

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

Approach

Autem z Volyně nebo Čestic do obce Nahořany, u kapličky na návsi se dejte po úzké asfaltové cestě na západ. Po 1,5 km odbočte vpravo do kopce k samotám U dobré vody, projedete kolem dvou samot a za nimi zaparkujte, asfalt tu končí. Dále pět minut pěšky přímo vzhůru po lesní pěšině ke skále. // By car from Volyně or Čestice to Nahořany village, near the chapel on the village square, take a narrow asphalt road to the west. After 1.5 km turn right up the hill to the lonely village Dobrá Voda longevity, drive around two alone and park behind them, the asphalt here ends. Next, five minutes walk up the forest path to the rock.

Parking: N 49°8.18278', E 13°48.66768'

Ethic inherited from Czechia

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of traditional climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (nuts, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually days after rain) or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

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Routes

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Grade Route

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

Nástup společně s cestou Sakra u prvního bh po spáře doprava a středem plotýnek (friendy) na vrchol.

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

FA: J. Svoboda & T. Svoboda, 2006

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