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Trpaslik Pastyrske Steny 🚫

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 1
  • Aka: Schäferwandzwerg
  • Aka: Schäferwandkegel

Climbing in this area is banned/illegal.

4

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Access issues inherited from Hřensko

available in Hřensko (50.8750, 14.2540) or Mezní Louka (50.8727, 14.3164), both paid. Do not ever park at street side. You will get fined.

Ethic inherited from České Švýcarsko

Nature Park rules overwrite the general sandstone climbing rules:

  1. Only certain crags are permitted for climbing. Those closed for climbing are all highlighted with #closed tag.

  2. Climbing is allowed only in certain months. See Description of each cliff.

  3. Use of chalk is prohibited.

  4. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.

  5. No changing of the rock surface.

  6. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  7. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  8. First ascents must be approved upfront from national park and ČHS administration. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  9. Only official access paths can be used. See maps attached in the particular areas.

Referred official document: https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/332/056710.pdf?seek=1594370530

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

CZ:

From the mountain side the north arete to the top.

Aus der Scharte die Nordkante zG.

FA: Peter Augst & G. Seifert, 1952

Closed

CZ:

with support III. At the south arete from small ledge supported up and wall to the top.

Mit Unterstützung III. An der Südkante von kleinem Absatz unterstützt hinauf und Wand zG.

FA: Egon Merke, H. Walther & S. Seifert, 1970

Closed

CZ:

Left of " Podzimi cesta" overhanging wall directly to the top.

Links vom "Herbstweg" überhängende Wand direkt zG.

FA: Oliver Ander, 1991

Closed

CZ:

In the west side from ledge supported wall to the top.

In der Westseite von Band unterstützt Wand zG.

FA: Heinz Weigel, 1971

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