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Access issues inherited from Czechia

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

Ethic inherited from Czechia

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of traditional climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (nuts, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually days after rain) or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Between first and second bolt is useful sling.

FA: V. Gregor & J. Pelech, 1966

FA: I. Straka & B. Adamec, 1985

FA: Adam Ondra, 2005

FA: Z. Konečný & R. Hýsek, 1999

FA: P. Weisser & M. Žák, 1987

FA: Adam Ondra, 2005

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

FA: V. Pipal & Z. Bělohradová, 1968

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

Third bolt is more far but sequence there is relatively easy. Also is possible to use sling on the left (route Vítejte ve starých časech) between second and third bolt. After third bolt there are other two slings.

FA: J. Beneš & B. Prudil, 1981

FA: D. Janák, M. Horáček & M. Podbraná, 2006

The crux is above second bolt until you reach huge hold. There is possible to placed cams, nuts and on the right 5mm sling (otherwise there is risk of fall on the ground before third bolt).

FA: J. Beneš & A. Piňos, 1982

Little harder than Naše kaše, with same possibilities of assecuration between second and third bolt.

FA: V. Wolf, 2009

FA: P. Glozar & M. Beníšek, 1967

FA: P. Glozar & M. Beníšek, 1968

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

FA: V. Wolf, 2008

FA: V. Pipal & I. Šteflíček, 1978

  • 5 bolts in 25 meters!

FA: Z. Konečný & P. Brych, 1986

FA: Z. Konečný, 2005

FA: P. Němec & P. Hřebíček, 2008

FA: P. Weisser & V. Pipal, 1986

FA: P. Weisser & T. Pilka, 1986

FA: P. Weisser, 1989

FA: V. Wolf, 2007

FA: V. Wolf, 2007

FA: Z. Konečný, 2005

FA: Z. Konečný, 2005

FA: J. Šustr & B. Prudil, 1983

FA: Z. Konečný & R. Svoboda, 1986

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

FA: V. Pipal & I. Šteflíček, 1978

FA: V. Pipal & I. Šteflíček, 1978

FA: V. Wolf & A. Záděra, 2009

FA: V. Wolf & A. Záděra, 2009

FA: V. Wolf, 2010

FA: V. Wolf & A. Záděra, 2009

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