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Malý Havran Guide

  • Grade context: UIAA
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 7
  • Aka: Kleiner Rabenstein

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Michal Vittek Terenc Alma CzeIgny Jaroslav Karel

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Malý Havran 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.798560, 14.872280

access issues

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

inherited from Czechia

ethic

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

inherited from Czechia
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Normální cesta / Normalweg {SX} I Trad
2 Náhorní komín / Schartenkamin

FA: Dieter Großmann, 1984

{SX} II Trad
3 Údolní cesta / Talweg

FA: Tomáš Melichar, V.Hanzl & M.Machovič, 1975

{SX} IV Trad
4 Havraní pírko / Rabenfeder

FA: Michael Bellmann & A.Kittler, 2001

{SX} IV Trad
5 Přes koníčka / Über das Pferdchen {SX} III Trad
6 Jižní hrana / Südkante {SX} IV Trad
7 ? Trad
8 Cvičná cesta / Übungsweg {SX} VI Trad
9 Hájból / Highball

FA: Ondřej Horáček, 2010

{SX} VIIc Trad
10 Západní spára / Westriss {SX} IV Trad
11 Odpolední cesta / Nachmittagsweg

FA: Martin Kejř & P.Ščevlík, 1974

{SX} IV Trad
12 Nanebevzetí / Himmelfahrt

FA: Alma & T.Schierz, 2007

{SX} VI Trad 8m
13 Přeskok / Sprung

FA: & vor, 2001

{SX} 2 Trad
14 Salám Junior

Lehce převislou stěnou (2 háky) vedle údolní hrany na vrchol.

FA: Jakub Měkota, Jan Duchoň & Jan Mastik, 2011

{SX} VI Sport 12m, 2
15 Jizni hrana

Z nejvyššího místa u skály, převislým sokolíkem po hraně. Jištění smyčkami.

{SX} IV Trad 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
I Normální cesta Trad
II Náhorní komín Trad
III Přes koníčka Trad
IV Havraní pírko Trad
Jizni hrana Trad 12m
Jižní hrana Trad
Odpolední cesta Trad
Západní spára Trad
Údolní cesta Trad
VI Cvičná cesta Trad
Nanebevzetí Trad 8m
Salám Junior Sport 12m, 2
VIIc Hájból Trad
? ? Trad
2 Přeskok Trad
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