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Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

Routes

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Grade Route

Links oder rechts vom gr.Überh. an der SO-Ecke zu gr.Abs. in der Südwand. Wandstufe zu kl.Scharte und Wand zG.

FA: Erich Glaser & R.Skokann, 1920

FA: Karel Bělina & František Žid, 1982

FA: Josef Kozlík & A.Olexa, 1970

FA: Milan Krauskopf, M.Polák & K.Bělina, 1986

Wand mit Überhang

FA: Karel Bělina & F.Žid, 1980

Riss, Wand

FA: J.Bádl, 1984

FA: Borek Metal, A.Chábová & J.Krijt, 1985

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerald Krug

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9783981951585

A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Ostrov (Eiland), covering over 3,300 routes on sandstone rock

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 28 Nov
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