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Neznámá věž

  • Grade context: SX
  • Aka: Unbekannter Turm

Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

Geoquest Kletterführer Ostrov: TOPO guide in German and English, 2020, ~40€, uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP").

Průvodce Ostrov: standard czech text guide, 2021, ~19€. Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system! (see grading in description)

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

Routes

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Grade Route

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: Karel Bělina & J.Bechyně, 1995

FA: Petr Bubla & J.Švadleňák, 1987

FA: Borek Metal & O.Částková, 1995

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: Karel Bělina, V.Kozumplik & V.Kučera, 2008

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Karel Bělina, B.Hynková, J.Nežerka, J & Ježek, 2008

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: Borek Metal, O.Částková & T.Pohůrek, 1995

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Karel Bělina & J.Nebeský u.Gef., 2008

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: Jan Nebeský, J.Štěpánek & P.Svinařík, 2009

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: Karel Bělina, B.Hynková, K.Bělinová & J.Nežerka, 2008

FA: Marius Zippe, K.Friedrich & A.Kittler, 1996

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: Karel Bělina, B.Hynková, K.Bělinová & J.Nežerka, 2008

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Petr Bubla & V.Kaule, 1998

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI

FA: Karel Bělina, V.Kučera, D.Richter, D.Betz & I.Kradorf, 2008

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV

FA: Karel Bělina & V.Kučera, 2008

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