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Bivaková stěna

  • Grade context: SX
  • Aka: Biwakwand

Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP").

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system! (see grading in description)

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

Routes

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Grade Route

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIIa

FA: Petr Slanina, J.Švadleňák & A.Adamová, 2012

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc

FA: Petr Slanina, J.Švadleňák & A.Adamová, 2012

FA: Petr Slanina & J.Švadleňák, 2012

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Stanislav Lukavský & J.Voves, 1993

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI

FA: Jan Voves & S. Lukavský, 1993

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa

FA: Stanislav Lukavský & J.Voves, 1993

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI

FA: Stanislav Lukavský & J.Voves, 1993

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